Well Worth the Wait

I’ve been saving this post for a while now.  For about a month, a little more even.  Since the weekend before Thanksgiving actually.  We had two dinner parties that week – a Friday night soup and sandwich supper, and on Sunday night, this special feast for my Grandma and Grandpa Anderson.  While they’d had an open invitation since the start of this project, it wasn’t until early November (all of us suddenly under the gun, as the official SC dinner parties quickly wound down to a lingering few), that my grandma and I finally sat down, coordinated our busy schedules, and picked the one single date during the following two months that worked out for all of us.  (Hectic as my schedule is these days - with not only these weekly dinner parties, but a rapidly growing number of catering and private cheffing jobs too (!) – it pales in comparison to the unbelievably busy lives of my way-too-energetic grandparents!)  So we pin-pointed the one and only night that worked, and marked it in our date books with permanent marker.  And a few weeks later, Grandma and Grandpa made an all-too-quick overnight trip from Toledo.  And I, in honor of our extra-special guests, prepared what I do believe has been the best dinner party of the entire year. 

Clusters of Fresh Grapes    Sautéed Veal Sweetbreads with Pancetta, Wild Mushrooms & Cream over Grilled Bread    Simple Green Salad    Braised Beef Short Ribs with Brandy, Prunes & Green Olives Polenta with Parmesan Roasted Carrots     Grapefruit Curd Tart

In fact, I’ve heard through the family grapevine, that the next morning on their drive back home, Grandpa remarked to Grandma that this was the best meal he’s ever eaten.  What a thing to hear!  And from your grandpa of all people!  I couldn’t have been more proud.  But you know what, considering the combination of both incredible food and wonderful company, I just might have to say the same thing myself. 

Why then, you may wonder, have I waited so long to share this meal with you?  Well, I’ve just been so crazily busy in the kitchen these days, I’ve hardly had a chance to get near my computer!  And this menu was so down-right amazing, I thought it would be a perfect penultimate dinner party post.  Plus, it was really kinda nice to have a dinner party-free and blog-free Christmas.  (Look at me, taking a break just a week before this project ends!)

But now, I’ll get back to business, and share with you this fabulous meal!

I felt a bit silly including grapes on the menu above, but they were just so gorgeous and perfect and utterly delicious, a truly essential addition to this meal, that I just had to mention them.  Not only a perfect beginning bite as I finished cooking the sweetbreads, a necessarily last-minute task, but also a perfectly light, fresh and simple counterpoint to the very rich and decadent meal lying ahead.  It’s amazing how often I rely on a beautiful bunch of  grapes, to fill in the missing link for a dinner party.  They’re one of my favorite and easiest tricks! 

Sweetbreads (i.e. the thymus gland of a calf) are my grandpa’s number one favorite food.  And I’ve got to say, that shows darn good taste on his part!  A bit of a rare treat, if you’ve haven’t had the chance yet to try them yourself, all I can say is, you don’t yet know what you’re missing.  Rich and tender and impossibly creamy, no mere written description can do justice to the magnificent deliciousness of sweetbreads.  You’ll just have to take my word for it, until you get the chance to try them yourself. 

Luxurious to begin with, I took the rich decadence even further,  sautéing the sweetbreads with peppery pancetta and a lovely collection of rare wild mushrooms, then draping them in a velvety cream sauce.  Finished with a bright squeeze of lemon juice and a smattering of fresh parsley, this luscious mixture was then spooned over thick slices of tenderly toasted, olive oil-brushed bread.  Man oh man, this was tremendously good.  I really am at a loss for words!

And then, a simple, simple salad.  I hate to use this pretentious sounding phrase, but this bright, crunchy cluster of greens was totally a palate cleanser.  Between rich sweetbreads and even richer short ribs, something fresh and light and simple was needed.  This quick and tasty salad was just the perfect thing to re-set our taste buds.

And now, the short ribs.  I just knew that no other main course could impress my grandparents more than this incredible cut of meat.  I’ve gone on and on before about the impressive attributes of short ribs, so I’ll spare you my passionate musings today, but rest assured, I could write a book about how much I love them! 

Not all that different from my last short rib recipe, I kept the cooking technique basically the same, and just substituted in a few new ingredients – sweet, plump dried prunes and briny petals of green Spanish olives.  All cloaked in a dark, full sauce of deeply caramelized onions, rich beef stock and a good swig of brandy.  I served this gorgeous braise atop a creamy bed of parmesan polenta, and with a side of oven-roasted baby carrots, just like last time (because I loved the combination so much).  Utterly enamored with this entire dish, I’ve served it twice since at catered dinner parties, both times to rave reviews. 

And finally, dessert.  And as with the prelude of  juicy grapes, and the fresh intermezzo of a salad, I thought it best that the final movement of this rich, undeniably indulgent meal be as bright and refreshing as possible.  And so, I looked to my favorite citrus, ruby red grapefruit.

I adapted this tart from a recipe in Bon Appétit, which actually called for blood oranges instead.  As luck would have it, the fruit market was out of blood oranges.  And it was lucky, for it was only then, standing in front of an empty blood orange barrel, that I even thought of using grapefruit.  With greater tartness, and a beautiful juicy sweetness, I knew right away that grapefruit would be an even better choice of citrus with which to end this meal. 

And keeping in pattern with the rest of this feast, this tart was absolutely sensational.  The crust for one was utter perfection – crisp and tender and buttery.  And the grapefruit curd filling was entirely amazing -  sharp in flavor and smooth in texture, bright and sweet and perfectly balanced.  And then on top, beautiful rings of sliced grapefruit segments.  Undeniably sophisticated, and incredibly delicious, this is one of my new favorite desserts. 

   

Sautéed Sweetbreads with Pancetta, Mushrooms & Cream Over Grilled Bread Serves  4 Perhaps a bit intimidating,  I can’t recommend sweetbreads enough – both for eating and for cooking!  Just go for it!     1 pound veal sweetbreads (you may have to special order these from a high quality meat      market) about 1/2 cup all-purpose flour 2 Tbl butter 1 Tbl extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for brushing on the bread 1 large shallot, peeled and finely diced 2 oz pancetta, finely diced 12 oz wild mushrooms (chanterelle, enoki, trumpet, etc.), trimmed, cleaned & thinly sliced 1 tsp fresh thyme leaves, chopped 1 small garlic clove, peeled and minced 3/4 cup heavy cream 2 Tbl fresh parsley leaves, finely chopped 2 Tbl freshly squeezed lemon juice 1/2 loaf French bread, sliced on the diagonal into 8 1-inch slices kosher salt & freshly ground black pepper, to taste     To prepare the sweetbreads:  If frozen, thaw overnight in the refrigerator.  Gently remove the ‘pipes’ (tube-like bands running between the sweetbread clusters) and tough membranes covering the sweetbreads.  Soak the sweetbreads in cool water for 1 hour, draining and changing the water every 15 minutes.  Bring a large pot of lightly salted water to a simmer, then add the sweetbreads and gently simmer for 20 minutes.  Drain then transfer the sweetbreads to an ice bath to cool, for 5 minutes.  Drain the sweetbreads and pat dry with paper towels.  Refrigerate until cool, about 2 hours.  Slice on the bias into 4 serving-size portions.  Keep refrigerated in an air-tight container until needed.    To assemble the dish: Preheat an oven broiler and arrange a rack about 10-inches beneath.  Brush both sides of each bread slice with extra-virgin olive oil, then place on a foil-lined sheet tray.  Set aside until needed.   Pat dry the sweetbreads with paper towels, then season generously on all sides with salt and pepper.  Dredge into the flour, then pat the sweetbreads to remove any excess flour.    Add the butter and 1 Tbl olive oil in a large sauté.  Melt the butter over medium-high heat, then add the flour-coated sweetbreads to the pan.  Sauté, turning once, until golden brown on both sides, about 4 to 5 minutes total.  The remove the sweetbreads to a plate, and reserve until needed.   Keep the pan over medium-high heat and add the shallots.  Season with salt and pepper and cook, stirring frequently, until tender and translucent, about 2 minutes.  Add the diced pancetta to the pan and cook until lightly crispy, about 5 minutes.  Using a slotted spoon, remove the shallot-pancetta mixture to a plate and reserve until needed.    Increase the heat to high, wait a half minute, then add the sliced mushrooms.  Saute, stirring occasionally, until tender and browned, about 3 minutes. Add the garlic and thyme and cook, stirring frequently, about 1 minute mores.    Return the shallot-pancetta mixture to the pan, then add the cream.  Stir to combine, then add the sweetbreads to the pan, nestling them in the sauce.  Reduce the heat to medium, and simmer until the sauce thickens, enough to just coat the back of a spoon, about 2 minutes.  Add the parsley and lemon juice and stir to combine.  Taste, then season as needed with salt and pepper.      While the sweetbread and sauce cook, you can toast the bread.  Place under the broiler and toast, turning once, until both sides are golden brown, about 4 minutes total.  Be careful not to over-toast the bread – You still want it tender inside.    Arrange two slices of toasted bread on each of four serving plates.  Place 1 portion of sweetbreads atop each plate, then spoon the mushroom cream sauce over the sweetbreads and bread, evenly dividing it between the 4 plates. Serve immediately.

 

 

Simple Green Salad    This recipe is a repeat from a previous dinner party.  (It’s that good!)  Check it out here.

 

 

Braised Beef Short Ribs with Brandy, Prunes & Green Olives Serves  4      1 Tbl extra-virgin olive oil 4 large beef short ribs (about 2 pounds total) 2 Tbl plus 1 Tbl butter, divided 1 large yellow onion, peeled and roughly chopped 1 large carrot, peeled and roughly chopped 2 cloves garlic, peeled and roughly chopped 1 tsp tomato paste 1 sprig fresh rosemary 1 bay leaf  1 1/2 cups Brandy 4 cups beef broth (I like this type store-bought beef broth) about 16 large Spanish green olives (with pits) about 16 dried prunes (pitted) kosher salt & freshly ground black pepper, to taste Heat a large, wide-bottomed pot over high heat for 2 minutes.  Add the olive oil, reduce the heat to medium-high, and heat for 1 minute longer.  Meanwhile, pat the short ribs dry with paper towels.  Season liberally with salt and pepper.  Add the short ribs to the pot in a single layer and sauté, turning as needed, until browned on all sides, about 10 minutes.  Transfer the ribs to a plate and reserve.  Wipe out the inside of the pot with paper towels, then return to medium-high heat.  Melt 2 Tbl butter in the pot, then add the chopped onions.  Season with a good sprinkling of salt and pepper, then sauté over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until well browned, about 15 minutes.  Add the chopped carrot and continue to sauté, stirring occasionally, until well browned also, about 6 minutes.  Add the garlic and sauté, stirring frequently, 1 minute longer.  Add the tomato paste sauté for 2 more minutes, stirring frequently.  Add the rosemary sprig, bay leaf and Brandy.  Bring to a boil, and scrape up any browned bits on the bottom of the pan.  Reduce by about half, then add the beef broth. Return the short ribs and any of their accumulated juices to the pot, arranging them in a single layer.  Bring to a simmer, then cover.  Braise at the barest of simmers until the ribs are very tender and the meat has pulled away from the bone, about 2 1/2 to 3 hours. While the short ribs simmer, slice the green olive from their pits:  Slicing from top to bottom, right along the pits, slice the flesh into three oval-shaped petals.  Discard the pits and reserve the olive petals until ready to use.  Transfer the ribs with tongs to a clean plate. Strain the braising liquid through a fine mesh sieve, and discard the solids.  Spoon as much fat as possible from the top of the liquid.  Discard the fat.  Transfer the braising liquid to a smaller pot and place, uncovered, over medium-high heat.  Keep at a strong simmer until the sauce is reduced to about 2 cups and is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon, about 15 minutes (but that is just a rough estimate – this time can vary greatly).  Reduce the heat to maintain a very gentle simmer, add the prunes and sliced olives, cover with a lid, and gently simmer for about 15 minutes longer.  Then remove the lid, add the remaining tablespoon of butter and stir until melted.  Taste the sauce and season as needed with salt and pepper.  When ready to serve, transfer the short ribs to the pot, and spoon the sauce over the ribs.  Cover and re-heat over medium-low, stirring occasionally, until hot.  Serve hot, dividing the short ribs, olive, prunes and sauce evenly between 4 plates. The short ribs and sauce can be made up to 2 days ahead and kept refrigerated in an air-tight container.  Reheat over low heat in a covered pot before serving.

 

 

Polenta with Parmesan This recipe is a repeat from a previous dinner party.  (It’s that good!)  Check it out here.

 

 

Roasted Carrots This recipe is a repeat from a previous dinner party.  (It’s that good!)  Check it out here.

 

 

Grapefruit Tart Adapted from Bon Appétit Magazine, January 2002, on Epicurious.com Serves 10     For the grapefruit curd & garnish: about 4 large red grapefruits 1 Tbl finely grated grapefruit zest (make sure to collect before slicing the grapefruits!) 1/3 cup plus 1/4 cup fresh grapefruit juice (collected while slicing the grapefruit segments) 1/3 cup fresh lemon juice (from about 2 to 3 lemons) 1 1/4 cups sugar 6 large eggs 2 large egg yolks 1 stick butter, sliced into 8 pieces, room temperature a few drops of red food coloring 3/4 tsp unflavored gelatin   For the tart shell: 1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour 2 Tbl sugar 1/4 tsp salt 1 stick butter, sliced into 1/4-inch cubes, cold 3 Tbl heavy cream, cold 1 Tbl Grand Marnier (optional – otherwise, sub in 1 Tbl more cream) 1 large egg yolk   First, zest the grapefruit, reserving 1 tablespoon to use later.  Then, with a sharp knife, slice off the top and bottom ends of each grapefruit.  Rest the fruit on a cutting board, and slice from top to bottom down the sides, removing the skin and the white pith that lies beneath.  Continue to slice away the skin, around the entire fruit.  Cut away any pith you may have missed.   Hold the peeled fruit over a bowl. Slice towards the core, as close as possible to the white membrane separating the segments. Make the same slice on the opposite side of the same segment.  When the two cuts meet at the bottom, the citrus segment with slide out, and fall into the bowl.  Repeat with the remaining segments.  When done with the entire fruit, squeeze the juice into the bowl.  Repeat with the remaining grapefruits.  Then strain the juice into a separate container.  Reserve 1/3 cup plus 1/4 cup of the grapefruit juice and  all of the grapefruit segments, refrigerated in separate air-tight containers, until ready to use.    In a medium-sized, metal mixing bowl, whisk to combine the grapefruit zest, 1/3 cup grapefruit juice, lemon juice, sugar, eggs and egg yolks.  Set the bowl over a saucepot filled with about 1-inch of gently simmering water.  Add the butter, then whisk constantly until the sauce thickens and a thermometer inserted into the sauce registers 175°F, about 12 minutes.  Be sure not to let the sauce boil, or go about the 175°F.  Remove the bowl from above the water, then add a few drops of red food coloring, 1 drop at a time and stirring well between drops, to achieve a rosy shade of pinkish-orange.  Be very careful – It’s a fine line between grapefruit pink and Pepto Bismol pink!  Cool the sauce for about a half hour at room temperature, stirring occasionally.  Cover with plastic, then chill in the refrigerator until cold, about 2 hours.    While the sauce cools, make the pastry shell:  Combine the flour, sugar and salt in the bowl of an electric stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment.  (You can also use a hand-held electric mixer.)  Blend on medium speed until combined.  Then add the butter and blend on medium until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs, about 1 to 2 minutes or so.  Add the cream, Grand Marnier and egg yolk, then blend on medium speed until the dough begins to clump together, about 1 minute or so.  Gather the dough into a ball, flatten into a disk, then roll out the dough on a lightly floured work surface, forming a 13-inch round circle.  Transfer the dough to a 10-inch diameter tart pan with a removable bottom.  Fold the overhand in to form double-thick sides, then press onto the pan sides.  Using a fork, pierce all over the bottom of the crust.  Freeze for 30 minutes.    Pre-heat the oven to 350 F and arrange a rack in the middle position.  Bake until the crust is lightly golden, about 30 minutes.  Cool completely in the pan on a wire rack.      It helps to reinforce the grapefruit sauce a bit with gelatin:  Place the remaining 1/4 cup grapefruit juice in a small sauce pot.  Sprinkle the gelatin evenly over the surface of the juice and allow it to stand for 10 minutes.  Then place the pot over medium-low heat and melt the gelatin mixture, stirring constantly.  Add the gelatin mixture to the grapefruit sauce and whisk to combine.    Pour the grapefruit sauce into the cooled crust, then place in the refrigerator until set, about 2 hours.  Cover lightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate until needed, up to 1 day.

Arrange the sliced grapefruit segments in concentric rings around the tart, staring with an outer layer and working your way in.  I was able to get in two rows, but if you use smaller grapefruits, you may be able to fit three.  Once you’ve topped the tart with the grapefruit slices, serve within 4 hours. 

Three Overnight Dinner Guests

Ben’s good friend James was staying with us all week last week.  And I’m beginning to think that our houseguests are somehow magnetic, because as it always seems to happen, one out-of-town friend attracted some more, and we ended up with more guests in the midst of his stay.  Julie, my close friend from culinary school, and her boyfriend Joe, came in on Saturday from Madison, and stayed for the night too.  And so, for this fiftieth Scrumptious Company dinner party, we had a fun mix and match of friends.  And man, was it fun!  A total blast!  We laughed all night, ate some tasty food, drank some tremendous wines (thanks to Julie and Joe), told many a scandalous story I can’t even repeat here, and then, right before dessert, out on our snowy back deck, we taught James to saber a bottle of (cheapo) Champagne! 

Black Bean Dip with Corn Chips & Vegetable Crudités        Chopped Romaine Salad with Radishes, Black Beans, Cucumber, Red Onion, Avocado, Pumpkin Seeds, Mint, Queso Fresco & Roasted Pepper Ranch Dressing    Pork Stew with Ancho Chiles, Carrots, Tomatoes & Lime Long Grain Brown Rice Pilaf Pickled Jalapeños    Chocolate Cinnamon Tart with Whipped Cream

The menu was filled with Mexican flavors and ingredients.  But it was a cozy, wintery sort of Mexican fare, which made for a nice, spicy change of pace, this time of year.  I’ve been wanting to make this pork stew for ages, and built the rest of the menu around it its warm flavors. 

For a starting snack, a silky puree of black beans, fortified with huge flavors of garlic, lime, cilantro and cumin.  This dip was all about the flavor and texture.  It’s certainly not a looker, I’ll be the first to admit.  A drab and dreary plop of purpley-brown goop, it would be down-right homely without its pretty garnish of cilantro, and some colorful chips and crudités on the side.  But it’s this unassuming guise that makes the first taste so surprisingly good.  The texture for one is totally luxurious – velvety smooth and wholly creamy.  And the flavor is truly out of this world – bright lime juice, smoky cumin, a hint of spicy cayenne, that singular prickly taste of cilantro, and a rounding out of smooth, heady garlic.  So utterly good, you’ll be surprised again and again with every single bite. 

 

Once the final scoop of black bean dip disappeared (and in record time),  I tossed together my current favorite salad.  Inspired by (i.e. lifted straight off the menu of) our favorite Chicago taqueria, this salad is full of everything good – avocado, cucumber, black beans, radishes, pumpkin seeds, queso fresco (a crumbly Mexican cheese), mint leaves, red onion.  Oh my gosh, every bite is filled with clean, bright flavors and fresh, magnificent crunch.  And all of it swathed in a creamy dressing of herbs and roasted poblanos.  Every next element adds layer upon layer to this awesome salad.  But the key to all,  I’ve got to say, lies in the mint.  This fresh zing of flavor highlights every last bite.  Like a secret ingredient in a magic potion, it transforms this dish into something altogether fantastical.  I can’t recommend this salad enough! 

 

 

 

 

And then it was time for the dish that inspired it all – the utterly tender stew of cubed pork shoulder, with smoky strips of ancho peppers, sweet batons of bright orange carrots, bright currents of lime juice, speckles of fresh cilantro and tender slices of tomato dissolving into the rich, full sauce.  Ah, so completely good.  So warm, so tasty, so full of coziness and comfort.  I served this lovely Mexican stew atop a warm bed of brown rice.  And then as a garnish, added a few green coins of pickled jalapeño. The recipe, found within the pages of an old Food & Wine, just begged me to make it.  And I’m so glad I gave in to its wishes.   I really was happy to oblige. 

 

 

 

 

And finally, a Mexican chocolate tart.  Rich, deep chocolate and warm cinnamon, in both the crust and the filling.  The bottom crust, made of crushed chocolate wafer cookies, was crisp and crunchy, a lovely dark shade of deepest brown.  Atop this, a creamier hue – a  rich, velvety layer of chocolate ganache, blending whole cream and cinnamon with both bittersweet and imported Mexican chocolate.  Sliced into thin wedges, these intensely rich triangles of spicy chocolate needed nothing more than an airy dollop of lightly sweetened whipped cream.   It was truly a fitting end to an all together amazing evening. 

 

 
   

Black Bean Dip Adapted from Gourmet Magazine, May 1996 Makes about 3 to 4 cups     1 Tbl extra-virgin olive oil 2 large garlic cloves,  peeled and minced 1/2 large green bell pepper, stem and seeds and pith removed, chopped 1 small yellow onion, peeled and chopped 2 15-oz cans black beans, rinsed well and drained well 1/4 cup fresh lime juice (from about 3 to 4 limes) 1/4 cup packed chopped fresh cilantro 1 tsp ground coriander seeds 1 tsp ground cumin 1/2 tsp cayenne kosher salt & freshly ground black pepper, to taste   Heat a large sauté pan over medium heat, then add the olive oil, garlic, green pepper and onion.  Season with salt and pepper, then cook, stirring frequently, until the vegetables are tender and the onion translucent.  Remove from the heat.    In the bowl of an electric food processor, combine the onion-garlic-pepper mixture with the beans, lime juice, cilantro, coriander, cumin and cayenne.  Process until very smooth, about 2 to 3 minutes.  Add a tablespoon or two of water, if necessary, to reach a silky consistency.  Taste, and season as necessary with salt and pepper.  Serve at room temperature.  Can be kept refrigerated in an air-tight container for up to 2 days.

 

 

Romaine Salad with Radish, Black Beans, Cucumbers, Red Onion, Avocado, Pumpkin Seeds, Mint, Queso Fresco and Roasted Pepper Ranch Dressing Inspired by The Big Star Salad, at Big Star, Chicago Serves 6     For the dressing: 2 medium-sized poblano peppers 1 large egg yolk 1 cup vegetable or canola oil 1/2 cup buttermilk 1 Tbl Dijon mustard juice from 1 lime 1 tsp onion powder 2 Tbl finely chopped fresh parsley leaves 2 Tbl finely chopped fresh chives 2 green onions, finely chopped (both white and green parts) 2 Tbl finely chopped cilantro leaves kosher salt & freshly ground black pepper, to taste     For the rest of the salad: 3 medium-sized heads romaine, rinsed and dried, chopped cross-wise into thick ribbons about 6 to 8 medium-sized radishes, very thinly sliced cross-wise into circles 1 English cucumber, thinly sliced cross-wise into rings 1 15-oz can black beans, rinsed well, drained and dried 1 small red onion, peeled and thinly sliced, then soaked in cool water for about 20      minutes, drained and dried (this will soften some of the pungency) 2 avocados, peeled, pitted and sliced into 1/2-inch cubes 1/2 cup pumpkin seeds 1/2 cup mint leaves, roughly chopped 1/2 cup queso fresco cheese (found in most stores near the shredded cheeses), crumbled kosher salt & freshly ground black pepper, to taste   To make the dressing: First, roast and puree the poblano peppers:  If you have a gas stove-top, turn a burner onto high heat.  Place the peppers directly on the grate over the flame.  Keep an eye on the peppers, turning pretty frequently, until the skin is evenly charred all around.  Place the peppers in a container and cover with a lid or plastic wrap.  Allow them to set for about 15 minutes.  [If you don’t have a gas stove-top, pre-heat the oven to 500°F.  Place the peppers on a parchment-lined baking sheet and roast, turning every 5-7 minutes, until the skin is loose and blistery.  Remove from the oven and place the peppers in a container. Cover with a lid or with plastic wrap. Allow them to set for about 15 minutes.]  Remove the peppers from the container.  Slice each pepper in half, length-wise, and then into quarters, lengthwise again.  Remove the stems, seeds, and any tough, pithy membranes inside.  Using a knife, scrape off the charred skin from the outside of the peppers. Place the pepper flesh into a blender or food processor and blend until smooth, about 2 minutes.      In a large mixing bowl, whisk the egg yolk until it is slightly foamy.  Slowly add the vegetable oil, just a few drops at a time, constantly beating with the whisk, until all the oil is incorporated and the mixture is thick and smooth, the consistency of mayonnaise.  Add the buttermilk, mustard, lime juice, onion powder, parsley, chives, green onion, cilantro and roast poblano puree, and stir to combine.  Taste and season as needed with salt and pepper.  Keep refrigerated in an air-tight container until needed, up to 2 days.    To assemble the salad: In a large mixing bowl, combine the chopped romaine with the sliced radishes, cucumber, black beans, red onion, avocado, pumpkin seeds, mint and queso fresco.  Add a few spoonfuls of the dressing, just enough to lightly coat everything, and toss well to combine.  (You won’t use nearly all the dressing.  Safe the rest for another salad, or for dipping veggies.)  Taste and season as needed with a sprinkling of salt and pepper, then toss again to combine.  Serve immediately.

 
  

Pork Stew with Ancho Chiles, Carrots, Tomatoes & Lime Adapted from a recipe by Tia Harrison on Food&Wine.com Serves 6 to 8      1/4 cup vegetable or canola oil 4 1/2 pounds trimmed boneless pork shoulder, cut into 2-inch pieces 2 large white onion, peeled and chopped into 1/2-inch pieces 8 garlic cloves, peeled and smashed 3 dried ancho chiles (see picture above), seeded and cut into thin strips with scissors 3 bay leaves pinch of ground cloves pinch of cayenne 8 cups chicken stock 1 pound carrots, peeled, sliced vertically in half, then sliced cross-wise into 2-inch pieces 6 ripe plum tomatoes, quartered length-wise, seeded and cored 1/4 cup fresh lime juice, plus more to taste, if you’d like 2 Tbl chopped fresh cilantro leaves kosher salt & freshly ground black pepper, to taste   Set a very large cooking pot (either an enameled cast-iron casserole pot, or a large straight-sided cooking pot, but not a stock pot - as long as it is big enough to fit the stew, and wider than it is tall) over medium-high heat.  Add the vegetable oil and heat it until shimmering, about 2 minutes.  Working with about 1/3 or half the cubed pork at a time, blot it dry with paper towels, then season all sides liberally with salt and pepper.  Carefully add the seasoned pork to the oiled pan, and cook until browned all, turning every few minutes, about 10 minutes total.  Using a slotted spoon or tongs, transfer the browned pork to a plate.  Repeat with the remaining pork.   Add the chopped onions to the pan, and stir to coat with the left-over oil, scraping the bottom of the pan to bring up any browned bits and pieces.  Season with salt and pepper and cook the onions, stirring frequently, until well-browned but not falling apart, about 10 minutes.  (I always find that adding a few tablespoons of water here or there, using it to scrape up any browned areas on the pan, and then letting it evaporate, helps onions brown deeply without burning.)  Add the garlic and cook for about 2 minutes longer, stirring frequently.  Add the sliced anchos, bay leaves, cloves and cayenne and stir to combine.  Add the chicken stock, and return the browned pork to the pot.    Bring to a simmer, cover with a lid, then reduce the heat to maintain the barest of simmers.  Lifting the lid to check the stew frequently, gently simmer until the pork is incredibly tender, about 3 hours.  Also, throughout the cooking time, it is wise to skim off with a spoon or ladle, any fat or frothy impurities that collects at the top of the stew.  Do this before each time you stir.    While the pork is cooking, cook the carrots:  Bring a large pot of salted water to a vigorous boil.  Add the sliced carrots and boil until just tender, between 4 and 7 minutes.  Drain immediately, then spread over a parchment covered baking pan to cool.  Reserve.   When the pork is thoroughly tender, strain the solids from the liquids with a colander, collecting the liquids in a large measuring cup or pitcher.  Set aside the solids.  Allow the liquid to rest a few minutes, then use a spoon to collect any liquid fat that rises to the top and discard it.  (For easiest collection of the fat, it is best if the container holding the strained liquids is taller and more narrow than the cooking pot, and also clear.)    Return the liquid to the cooking pot and simmer until it is reduced to a good flavor and consistency.  (The time for this can vary greatly.)  When a deep flavor and velvety texture is achieved, add the strained solids back to the simmering liquid, along with the sliced tomatoes and stir to combine.  Cover the pot and simmer gently, stirring occasionally, about 20 minutes longer.  The tomatoes will break down a bit and disappear into the sauce, but that’s okay.    Add the lime juice and cilantro to the nearly done stew and stir to combine.  Taste, then season as needed with salt and pepper, and perhaps more lime juice.  Add the cooked carrots to the stew and stir gently to combine.    The stew can be made a couple days ahead, then reheated over a low flame.  Stir frequently while reheating.    Serve hot, spooned over rice, garnished with pickled jalapeños.

 

Rice Pilaf This recipe is a repeat from a previous dinner party.  (It’s that good!)  Check it out here.

 
 

Pickled Jalapeños This recipe is a repeat from a previous dinner party.  (It’s that good!)  Check it out here.

 
  

Chocolate Cinnamon Tart Adapted from Bon Appetit Magazine, February 2007 Serves  10     For the crust: 1 cup chocolate wafer cookie crumbs, finely ground in a food processor (from a little more      than half of one 9-oz package) 1/4 cup granulated sugar 1/2 tsp ground cinnamon 1/4 tsp kosher salt 5 Tbl unsalted butter, melted   For the filling: 1 cup heavy whipping cream 4 oz bittersweet chocolate, chopped 1 (3.1 oz) disk Mexican chocolate (this brand is easy to find in most stores), chopped 1/2 stick unsalted butter, cut into 4 pieces, room temperature 2 tsp vanilla extract 1 tsp ground cinnamon 1/2 tsp kosher salt   To make the crust: Pre-heat the oven to 350ᵒF and arrange a rack in the middle position.     Blend the chocolate crumbs, sugar, cinnamon and salt in the electric food processor.  Add the melted butter and process until the crumbs are well moistened.  Press the crumbs into a 9-inch diameter tart pan with a removable bottom, pressing them evenly over the bottom and up the sides of the pan.  (I only had a 10-inch tart pan on hand, so I increased by 25% all the ingredients, for both the crust and the filling (multiplied each by 1 1/4) and it worked well.)  Bake until set, about 20 minutes.  Cook on a wire rack.    To make the filling: Add the cream to a medium-sized saucepot and bring to a simmer over medium-high heat, stirring frequently.  Remove from the heat, then add the chopped chocolates.  Whisk until melted and smooth.  Add the butter, one piece at a time, whisking until smooth between each addition.  Whisk in the vanilla, cinnamon and salt.  Pour the filling into the crust, then let stand at room temperature about 15 minutes.  Then chill uncovered in the refrigerator until completely set, at least 4 hours.  Can be made a day ahead.    To serve, push the tart from its bottom, to remove the side rim.  Then slice into wedges.  Top each slice with a dollop of whipped cream.  (See recipe below.) For the whipped cream: 1  cup heavy cream 2 tsp sugar 1 tsp vanilla Whip the cream to soft peaks (When you stick a spoon into the cream and lift it out, a point will form then droop down after a second or two).  Add sugar and vanilla and whip to firm peaks (The point formed in the cream will stand straight up and not fall over).

Five-Hundred & Seventy-Six Christmas Cookies

Last Sunday I hosted a Christmas cookie exchange.  I invited eleven friends and handed out eleven of my favorite cookie recipes, one for each friend.  And I was there too, of course, which rounded it out to an even dozen.  A dozen friends, a dozen different kinds of cookies.  The instructions were simple – Each of us baked a batch of four dozen cookies, enough for all of us to sample one of each at the party and then bring home three of each kind to share with friends and family.  Along with these hundreds of cookie confections (576 to be exact!) I had on hand hot coffee and tea, cold milk and creamy eggnog.  And a dozen pretty white boxes, lined with red and green tissue paper, all in a row, ready for filling with assorted cookies. 

ONE:  Jam Thumbprints
TWO:  Cranberry Turtle Bars
THREE:  White Chocolate Peppermint Cookies
FOUR:  Frosted Cut-Outs
FIVE:  Gingerbread Men
SIX:  Caramel-Glazed Coffee Shortbread Cookies
SEVEN:  Nutmeg Logs
EIGHT:  Lemon-Sugar Sandwich Cookies
NINE:  Cognac Sugarplums
TEN:  Orange Poppy Seed Cookies
ELEVEN:  Rosemary Trees
TWELVE:  Espresso Chip Meringues 

With Christmas already so near, and coming faster than ever, I’d wanted to get this post up as soon possible, so you all might have a chance to make some of these yourselves this year.  In step with the glittering sugar-plums, visions of a Monday afternoon blog post danced in my head from the start.  But man oh man, I’ve had a crazy week!  And try as I might, it just didn’t happen.  And so, already later than I wanted to be, I’m going to try and make this post short and sweet as can be.  Even thought I could go on and on, I’ll just share a few thoughts about each cookie, and then get straight to the recipes.
   

I do have to say though, every last cookie turned out sensationally!  Everyone did such a fantastic job, I couldn’t get over it!  As each guest arrived and un-veiled her cookie, I became more and more thrilled.  And we all had such a blast, tasting one another’s cookies and sharing our baking stories.  I can hardly wait to do it all over again next year!
  

 

That said, let’s get on to cookie number one!  The Jam Thumbprints. There’s a million versions out there, but this is one heck of a thumbprint recipe.  It’s one of Ina Garten’s (and you know how much I love her).   My friend Rachel made these, and did a stupendous job.  Tender yet crisp and a little bit chewy, with rich buttery flavor, sweet flecks of coconut and jewel-like dollops of raspberry & apricot jam nestled on top.  Oh man, we’re off to a great start!

 

ONE:  Jam Thumbprints Adapted from a recipe by Ina Garten Makes about 32 cookies      3 ½ cups all-purpose flour ½ tsp kosher salt 3 sticks unsalted butter, room temperature 1 cup granulated sugar 1 tsp vanilla extract 1 large egg 1 Tbl water 7 oz sweetened coconut flakes Raspberry jam and Apricot jam, roughly a few tablespoons each   Pre-heat the oven to 350°F. Arrange the racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven. Line cookie sheets with parchment paper and set aside. In a medium-sized mixing bowl, whisk to combine the flour and salt. Set aside. Combine the butter and sugar in the bowl of an electric stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. (You can also use a hand-held electric mixer.) Beat on medium-high speed until just combined, about 1 minute. Add the vanilla and beat again to combined, about 30 seconds. Scrape down the sides of the bowl and the paddle with a rubber spatula. With the mixer on lowest speed, add the flour mixture to the butter-sugar mixture. Mix on low until the dough just starts to come together. Be careful to not over-mix. Transfer the dough onto a floured work space. Gather into a flat disk, then wrap in plastic and refrigerate for about 30 minutes. Divide the dough into about 32 equal pieces, roughly 1 ¼ inch wide. Using your hands (slightly dampening them with water helps), roll the pieces of dough into balls. Lightly press each ball to flatten it slightly, to about a 1-inch thickness. Make an egg wash by beating together the egg and water in a small bowl. Place the coconut flakes in another small bowl. Dip each flattened ball of dough into the egg wash, then roll it in the coconut flakes. Place the balls onto the parchment-lined cookie sheets, spacing them about 2-inches apart. Using your finger, press a light indentation into the top of each dough ball. Place a heaping ¼ teaspoon of jam (half of the cookies with raspberry and the other half with apricot) into each indentation. Bake, 2 sheets at a time, until the coconut is golden brown and the cookies are set, about 20 to 25 minutes. Be sure to rotate the pans (switch their positions and turn each 180 degrees) half-way through cooking time. Cool for a couple minutes on the pan, before lifting the cookies with a rubber spatula to cool on cooling racks or on a clean counter. Cool to room temperature before storing at room temperature in an air-tight container.

 

Cookie number two, from my friend Andrea’s kitchen, the Cranberry Turtle Bars.  These were my absolute favorite of the mix.  Buttery shortbread base, and then a chewy layer of caramel, studded with toasted pecans and cranberries – fresh cranberries that cook down to a sticky red mess in the bubbling caramel sauce.  And finally a dark drizzling of bittersweet chocolate. Rich, sweet, tart, fabulous.  Entirely delicious and completely satisfying.  This is my new cookie. 

 

TWO: Cranberry Turtle Bars Adapted from The Gourmet Cookie Book by Conde Nast Publications Makes 3 dozen bars        For the base: 2 cups all-purpose flour 1/2 cup light brown sugar, packed ½ tsp kosher salt 1 ½ sticks cold butter, cut into ½-inch cubes For the topping: 2 sticks butter 1 2/3 cups granulated sugar ¼ cup light corn syrup ½ tsp salt 1½ cups fresh (or frozen (but not thawed)) cranberries (6 ¾ oz), coarsely chopped 1 tsp vanilla 3 cups pecans (12 oz), toasted and cooled, then coarsely chopped 2 oz bittersweet chocolate (not semi-sweet or unsweetened), very finely chopped Special equipment: a candy thermometer To make the base: Preheat the oven to 350°F and arrange a rack in the middle position. Line a 9 x 13-inch shallow baking pan with foil, leaving a 2-inch overhang on the two short sides. Butter all four sides, but not the bottom. Add the flour, brown sugar and salt to the bowl of an electric food processor. Pulse a few times to combine. Add the cubed butter and pulse until the mixture begins to form small, pea-sized lumps.  Transfer the dough to the prepared baking pan, then press down firmly with your fingers and the heel of your hand to form an even layer. Bake until lightly golden and firm, anywhere between 15 to 25 minutes. Cool on a wire rack to room temperature. To make the topping: Melt the butter in a medium-sized sauce pan over medium heat. Stir in the sugar, corn syrup and salt. Increase the heat to medium-high and boil, stirring occasionally, until the mixture is deep golden brown and registers 245°F on a candy thermometer, about 8 minutes. (If it takes longer, so be it – The important thing is the temperature, not the time.) Carefully add the cranberries and stir to combine. Continue to boil until the caramel returns to 245°F. Remove the pot from the heat and stir in the vanilla. Then add the pecans and stir until well coated. Working quickly, spread the caramel topping over the cookie base, using a rubber spatula to distribute the sauce and a fork to distribute the nuts and berries evenly. Cool completely to room temperature. Once cool, lift the bars by the foil from the pan and transfer to a cutting board. Cut in 6 cross-wise strips, then 6 length-wise strips, for a total of 36 bars. (I like to sliced down the center first, and then slice each half in three even pieces. Doing this in both directions gives me the most even results.) Place the chocolate in a small heat-safe bowl placed over a pot with about an inch of simmering water. (Make sure the bowl fits snugly inside the pot, or the chocolate will burn from the direct heat of the stove-top.) Stir until melted and smooth. Transfer the chocolate to a small heavy-duty plastic bag. Using a scissors, snip off a tiny bit of one corner to form a small hole. Evenly pipe the chocolate in wavy stripes across the bars. Let stand at room temperature until the chocolate sets, about 30 minutes to 1 hour. Store at room temperature in an air-tight container, up to 3 days.

 

The White Chocolate Peppermint cookies were supposed to go to my friend Jen.  But she ended up having to work at the last minute, and so I happily took on the task, eager to try them out for myself.  Deep brown wafer-like circles, flavored with chocolate and peppermint, thin and crisp yet tender.  Topped with a smooth smear of creamy white chocolate then dusted with crushed candy cane.  Very cute and very Christmassy.  Needless to say, very delicious too!

 

THREE: White Chocolate Peppermint Cookies Adapted from a recipe by Martha Stewart Makes about 6 dozen cookies      cup of all-purpose flour, plus more for rolling the dough ½ cup unsweetened Dutch-process cocoa powder ½ tsp baking soda ½ tsp baking powder ½ tsp salt 5 Tbl unsalted butter, room temperature ¾ cup sugar 1 large egg 1 large egg yolk ¾ tsp pure peppermint extract 8 candy canes, or 30 round peppermint candies, crushed 12 oz white chocolate, chips or coarsely chopped In a medium-sized mixing bowl, whisk together the flour, cocoa powder, baking soda, baking powder and salt. Set aside. In the bowl of an electric stand mixer, combine the butter and sugar. (You can also use a hand-held electric mixer too.) Beat on medium-high speed until light and fluffy, about 2 minutes. Scrape down the sides of the bowl and the paddle with a rubber spatula, as needed. Reduce the speed to medium-low. Add the egg, then the yolk, beating well after each addition. Beat in the peppermint extract. Slowly add the flour mixture, and beat only until just incorporated. Shape the dough into two equal disks. Wrap in plastic, and refrigerate until firm, at least 1 hour and up to 2 days. Preheat the oven to 325°F and arrange the racks in the upper and lower third positions. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper and set aside. On a lightly floured surface, roll out one disk of dough to 1/8-inch thickness. Using a 2-inch round cookie cutter, cut out circles, and arrange 1-inch apart on the parchment-lined baking sheets. (Roll and cut the left-over scraps once, then discard the remaining scraps.) Freeze the cookies on their baking sheets until firm, about 15 minutes. Repeat with the remaining disk. Bake, 2 sheets at a time, until the cookies are dry to the touch, about 12 minutes, rotating the pans (trading their positions and turning them each 180 degrees) about half-way thorough the cooking time. Transfer the parchment with the cookies to wire racks to cool. Continue baking the remaining cookies. Undecorated cookies can be kept at room temperature in an air-tight container for up to 3 days. Sift the crushed peppermint candy, separating the large pieces from the dust, and reserving both. Place the white chocolate in a heatproof bowl set over a pot filled with about an inch of gently simmering water. Stir frequently as the chocolate melts. Remove from the heat. Using a small off-set spatula, frost each cookie top with a smooth circle of melted chocolate. Immediately sprinkle with about ¼ teaspoon of either the candy pieces or the dust. Repeat with the remaining cookies, sprinkling half with candy pieces and half with candy dust. Refrigerate on the baking sheets until set, up to 3 hours. Keep refrigerated in an air-tight container. The cookies will keep up to 5 or so days, but are best eaten earlier rather than later.

 

The fourth cookie, the frosted cut-outs, were assigned to me all along.  A recipe my mom has been baking every Christmas for years, these soft, buttery cut-out cookies with their sweet, creamy frosting are just too delicious to describe.  And they’re so much fun to decorate, too!  This year I went with Christmas lights, dying seven scoops of frosting seven different colors, then dusting the frosted lights with matching sugars.  Lined up all in a row, they seemed to glow and glitter like real twinkle lights. 

 

FOUR: Frosted Cut-Outs Cookies adapted from a recipe by Tasha Tudor, by way of my mom, Susan Anderson Frosting adapted from a recipe by my aunt, Janet Schoen Makes about 5 dozen small to medium-sized cut-outs (about 3 to 4 inches high/wide)      For the cookies: 5 cups all-purpose flour 1 tsp baking soda 1/2 tsp kosher salt 2 sticks butter, room temperature 2 sticks margarine, room temperature 2 cups granulated sugar 2 eggs 3 Tbl milk 1 Tbl vanilla   For the frosting: 1/3 cup margarine, room temperature 3 cups powdered sugar 1/2 tsp vanilla 2 Tbl milk, more if needed various shades of food coloring colored sugars, sprinkles and other edible decorations (optional)   To make the cookies: In a medium-sized mixing bowl, whisk to combine the flour, baking soda and salt.  Reserve.   Combine the butter, margarine and sugar in the bowl of an electric stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment.  (You can also use a hand-held electric mixer.)  Beat on medium-high speed until light and fluffy, about 3 minutes.  Using a rubber spatula, scrape down the sides of the bowl and the paddle, as needed.  Add the eggs, one at a time and, and beating until combined, after each addition.  Add the milk and vanilla and beat to combine.  Scrape again with the rubber spatula.  With the mixer running at low speed, gradually add the flour mixture.  Continue to mix just until a soft dough forms.  Scrape down the sides of the bowl again and give one last stir to combine.    Transfer the dough to a clean work surface and shape into a flat, circular disk, about 2-inches thick.  Wrap in plastic, then refrigerate until cold, about 2 hours, or up to 2 days.   Pre-heat the oven to 350°F and arrange the racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven.   Place the chilled dough on a lightly floured work surface, and knead it a few times until smooth and not sticky.  Divide the dough into four even portions, then shape these portions into balls.  Working one at a time, place each ball on a large sheet of parchment paper, and roll with a rolling pin to a thickness of about 1/4-inch.  Transfer by the parchment paper to a cookie pan, then refrigerate about 10 to 15 minutes.  (This step of rolling on parchment then refrigerating is not necessary,  but it really helps to get nice, sharp cookies edges, lending a much better shape to the cookies overall.)    Transfer the chilled, rolled dough by its parchment paper, from the cookie pan back to the countertop.  Using variously shaped cookie cutters (I used a Christmas light shape, about 3-inches high), cut out the shapes from the sheet of dough.  Using a thin metal spatula, transfer the cut dough to the cookie pan, spacing the cookies about 1-inch apart.  When the pan is filled with cookies, refrigerate until ready to place in the oven.  Repeat with the remaining portions of dough.  Roll together the dough scraps to a 1/4-inch thickness, and continue cutting cookies until all the dough is used.      Bake, two pans at a time, until set and lightly golden around the edges, about 8 to 10 minutes.  Be sure to rotate the pans (switch their positions and turn each 180 degrees) half-way through cooking time.  Allow the cookies to cool on the pans for about 2 minutes, then transfer to a wire cooking rack with a metal spatula. Cool to room temperature.    To make the frosting: Combine all the ingredients in the bowl of an electric stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment.  (You can also use an electric hand-held mixer.)  Whisk on medium-high speed until well combined, smooth, and spreadable. If the frosting appears too thick or dry, add more milk, one teaspoon at a time until you achieve a nice, spreadable consistency.    Divide the frosting in to separate bowls – the number of which, and the amount of frosting in each, will depend completely on you and how you want to decorate your cookies.      For the best looking frosted results, transfer the colored frosting to pastry bag fitted with a small round piping tip.  Pipe a border evenly around the space you want to frost, then fill the interior with a quick zigzag of more frosting.  Smooth out the surface with a small off-set spatula.  Immediately decorate with the colored sprinkles, sugars (like I did) or other decorations, before the frosting has time to harden.  Allow the frosted, decorated cookies to stand at room temperature until the frosting is well set, about 1 hour.  Then keep at room temperature, arranged in a single layer, covered with plastic wrap or in an air-tight container.  Will keep up to 5 or so days, but are best eaten earlier rather than later.

 

And of course we had to have gingerbread.  And thanks to my friend Veronica, we did.  A whole army of gingerbread boys, thin and crisp and way too cute, all buttoned up with little dots of lemon icing.  Straight from the pages of The Joy of Cooking, this is a great go-to gingerbread recipe, rich with warm spices and the deep flavor of molasses.  Mmmmm.

 

FIVE: Gingerbread Boys Adapted from The Joy of Cooking by Irma S. Rombauer Makes about 2 dozen men (5-inches tall) and about 5 dozen boys (2 1/2-inches tall)     For the cookies: 3 cups all-purpose flour 1 ½ tsp baking powder ¾ tsp baking soda ¼ tsp salt 1 Tbl ground ginger 1 ¾ tsp ground cinnamon ¼ tsp ground cloves 6 Tbl butter, room temperature ¾ cup dark brown sugar, packed 1 large egg ½ cup molasses 2 tsp vanilla 1 tsp finely grated lemon zest For the icing: 1 cup powdered sugar, more if needed 2 to 3 tsp lemon juice, more if needed To make the cookies: In a large mixing bowl, thoroughly whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, ginger, cinnamon and cloves. Set aside. Combine the butter, brown sugar and egg in the bowl of an electric stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Beat on medium speed until well blended, about 2 minutes. Scrape down the sides of the bowl and paddle with a rubber spatula. Add the molasses, vanilla and lemon zest, then beat until well combined, about 1 minute. With the mixer on low speed, gradually add the flour mixture. Continue to mix until well blended and smooth. Divide the dough in half. Wrap each half in plastic. Let stand at room temperature for at least 2 hours and up to 8 hours. (The dough can be refrigerated for up to 4 days also. But be sure to return the dough to room temperature before proceeding.) To bake, preheat the oven to 375°F. Position a rack in the upper third of the oven. Generously butter two cookie sheets. Place one portion of the dough on a floured work surface. Lightly sprinkle flour over the surface of the dough, and dust a rolling pin with flour too. Roll the dough out to a scant ¼-inch thickness (just under ¼-inch). To prevent sticking, lift the dough frequently, and add a bit more flour as necessary. Cut out the cookies using a 3 to 4-inch tall gingerbread man cutter. With a thin metal spatula, transfer the cut-outs to the buttered cookie sheets, spacing them about 1 ½ inches apart. Roll together the dough scraps to ¼-inch thickness and continue cutting out cookies until all of the dough is used.   Bake, one sheet at a time, until the cookie edges are just barely dark, about 7 to 10 minutes. Make sure to rotate the cookie sheet halfway through baking. Remove the cookie sheet from the oven and allow the cookies to rest on the pan for about 3 minutes, to cool and firm slightly. Then transfer the cookies using a metal spatula to a wire rack to cool. Cool to room temperature before storing at room temperature in an air-tight container. To ice the cookies: In a small mixing bowl, whisk together the sugar and lemon juice, whisking until it is thick yet smooth. Adjust the consistency as needed with more sugar (if too thin) or lemon juice (if too thick). Transfer the icing to a piping bag fitted with a small round trip. Decorate each cooled cookie with three icing dots for buttons. Add more icing decorations too if you’d like. Allow to set at room temperature for about 30 minutes, then store at room temperature in an air-tight container. The cookies will keep up to 5 or so days, but are best eaten earlier rather than later.

 

Made by my friend Tammy, cookie number six was a bit on the fancy side, and way on the yummy side.  Coffee flavored shortbread rectangles, speckled with flecks of finely ground coffee beans, coated in a sticky, espresso-spiked caramel topping then dotted with a single chocolate-covered espresso bean.  As beautiful as anything, and absolutely delicious!

 

SIX: Caramel-Glazed Coffee Shortbread Cookies Adapted from a recipe by Flo Braker from Food & Wine Makes 40 bars For the shortbread base: 2 ¼ cups plus 2 Tbl all-purpose flour ½ cup packed light brown sugar 1 Tbl finely ground coffee beans ½ tsp salt 2 sticks unsalted butter, room temperature 1 tsp vanilla extract For the glaze: ¼ stick unsalted butter, room temperature 1/3 cup light brown sugar, packed 1 Tbl strong-brewed espresso 1 Tbl light corn syrup Pinch of salt 40 chocolate covered espresso beans To make the shortbread base: Preheat the oven to 350°F and arrange a rack in the middle position. Line a 9 x 13-inch shallow baking pan with foil, leaving a 2-inch overhang on the two short sides. Butter all four sides, but not the bottom. Add the flour, brown sugar, ground coffee and salt to the bowl of an electric food processor. Pulse a few times to combine. Add the cubed butter and pulse until the mixture begins to form small, pea-sized lumps.  Transfer the dough to the prepared baking pan, then press down firmly with your fingers and the heel of your hand to form an even layer. Bake until lightly golden and firm, anywhere between 15 to 25 minutes. Cool on a wire rack about 10 minutes. Grasping the foil overhangs, carefully transfer the shortbread base from the pan to the countertop. Using a ruler, cut the still warm shortbread lengthwise into 8 strips. (Slice lengthwise in half, then slice each half in half to get quarters, then slice each quarter in half to get eighths – It’s the best way to achieve even slices.) Then slice cross-wise into five even rows. Let the shortbread bars cool completely. Note: Don’t separate the bars from each other. Keeping them closely together will help when it comes to glazing their tops. To make the glaze: In a small to medium saucepan, combine the butter, brown sugar, espresso, corn syrup and salt. Stir to combine, then bring to a boil over medium heat, occasionally swirling the pan. Boil until just thickened, about 1 ½ to 2 minutes, then remove from the heat. When the bubbling subsides, immediately pour the hot glaze over the shortbread bars. Working very quickly, spread the glaze in an even layer with a small off-set spatula. Using the tip of a lightly oiled paring knife, score the glaze between the shortbread bar edges, without dragging. (This means, make a bunch of separate cuts, rather than dragging the knife down the rows. And you’ll probably want to rinse, dry and re-oil your knife time every once in a while too.) Press a chocolate-covered espresso bean into the center of each bar. Let cool slightly, then carefully lift out the bars and transfer to a plate. These can be kept in an air-tight container, for up to 5 days.

 

Perhaps the most humble of the dozen, small and pale and admittedly a little bit plain, these Nutmeg Logs were maybe one of the all-around best too.  Delicate in flavor, yet made pleasantly complex by the combining forces of freshly grated nutmeg and deep, dark rum.  A perfect cookie to have with a hot cup of tea.  These mini Yule log treats came courtesy of Downstairs Sara, who actually came upstairs to bake them.  Baking alongside each other, listening to Christmas carols, we relished our first chance to hang out in a long, busy while.
  

SEVEN: Nutmeg Logs Adapted from the Dayton Daily News, 1990, by way of my friend, Erin Carr Makes about 4 dozen cookies         For the cookies: 3 cups all-purpose flour 1 tsp freshly grated nutmeg ½ tsp salt 2 sticks butter, room temperature ¾ cup granulated sugar 1 large egg 3 tsp vanilla 2 tsp rum For the frosting: 3 Tbl butter, room temperature ½ tsp vanilla 1 tsp rum 1 ½ cups powdered sugar 1 Tbl plus 1 tsp heavy whipping cream nutmeg, for sprinkling. To make the cookies: Preheat the oven to 350°F. In a medium sized mixing bowl, whisk to combine the flour, nutmeg and salt. Set aside. Combine the butter and sugar in the bowl of an electric stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment. Beat on medium-high speed until light and fluffy, about 3 minutes. Using a rubber spatula, scrape down the sides of the bowl and the paddle with a rubber spatula, as needed. Add the egg, vanilla and rum and beat to combine, about 1 minute. Add the flour mixture and mix on low until thoroughly combined, about 1 minute. Scrape again with the rubber spatula, if needed. Divide the dough into about 10 or 12 pieces. On a lightly-flowered work surface, roll these pieces of dough into long ropes, about ½-inch diameter or a little thicker. Slice into 2-inch lengths. (Roll together the rough, un-used ends of the dough, then repeat rolling it into a rope and cutting it to 2-inches.) Place the ‘logs’ onto an ungreased baking sheet, spacing them about 1-inch apart. Bake until firm and lightly golden, about 10-20 minutes. Cool for about 3 minutes on the pan, then transfer with a metal spatula to a wire cooking rack. Cool completely to room temperature. To make the frosting:  Combine the butter, vanilla and rum flavoring in the (cleaned and dried) bowl of an electric stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Beat on medium-high speed until well combined and fluffy, about 2 minutes. Add ½ cup of the powdered sugar and beat to combine, then add the cream and beat to combine. Add the remaining powdered sugar and beat until smooth and spreadable. To assemble the cookies:  Spread the frosting on the tops of each cookie, then immediately sprinkle lightly with nutmeg. Allow the cookies to stand at room temperature until the frosting sets, then store (arranged delicately, so they’re not crammed together) refrigerated in an air-tight container.

 
Cookie number eight fell into my lap too, another cancellation that I greedily snatched up.  These glittering lemon-sugar sandwich cookies looked so adorable, I couldn’t resist adding them to my Saturday baking agenda.  Incredibly tender cookies, so delicate and fine, with a crunchy bite of sugar coating and a smooth, bright filling of zesty lemon icing.  Fabulous in every way, and one of my favorites in the mix. 

 

EIGHT: Lemon-Sugar Sandwich Cookies Adapted from The Gourmet Cookie Book by Conde Nast Publications Makes between 3 and 4 dozen sandwiches           For the cookies: 2 cups all-purpose flour 1 cup cornstarch 1/2 tsp salt 3 sticks unsalted butter, room temperature 3/4 cup powdered sugar 1 Tbl plus 1 ½ tsp finely grated lemon zest (from about 3 lemons) 1 1/2 tsp vanilla ½ cup plus ¼ cup granulated sugar, divided, for dusting 2 Tbl yellow sugar, for dusting For the filling: 1 cup powdered sugar 1 Tbl finely grated lemon zest (from about 2 lemons) 1 Tbl fresh lemon juice 2 Tbl light corn syrup ½ stick unsalted butter, softened To make the cookies: Preheat the oven to 350°F and arrange a rack in the middle position. Line 2 large baking sheets with parchment paper. In a medium-sized mixing bowl, whisk together the flour, cornstarch and salt. Set aside. Combine the butter and powdered sugar in the bowl of an electric stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Beat on medium-high speed until light and fluffy, about 3 minutes. Add the lemon zest and vanilla and beat to combine. With the mixer running at low speed, gradually add the flour mixture. Continue to mix just until a soft dough forms. Add the half cup granulated sugar to a small bowl. In a separate small bowl, combine the remaining ¼ cup granulated sugar with the 2 Tbl yellow sugar and stir to combine. One by one, roll scant half tablespoons of dough into balls, then drop into one or the other bowls of sugar, turning to coat completely. Drop half into the plain white sugar and half into the white-yellow sugar mixture. (You could simply do one or the other, but for some reason, I really like the combination.) Transfer the sugar coated balls to the parchment-lined baking sheet, spacing the balls about ¾-inch apart, until the baking sheet is filled. Refrigerate for 30 minutes. (This will help preserve their rounded shape.) Bake, one baking sheet at a time, until the tops are lightly cracked but the cookies are still pale, about 15 minutes. (The bottoms should be pale golden.) Transfer the cookies by their parchment to a wire rack. Cool completely to room temperature. The un-frosted cookies can be kept at room temperature in an air-tight container. To make the filling: Combine the powdered sugar, lemon zest, lemon juice, corn syrup and butter in the (cleaned and dried) bowl of an electric stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment. Beat at medium speed until well combined, about 1 to 2 minutes. Transfer to a heavy-duty plastic bag. Snip off a corner to form a small hole. To assemble the cookies: Flip over half of the cookies to expose their flat bottom sides. Pipe about ½ teaspoon of filling onto the center of each cookie bottom. Sandwich with the remaining cookies, matching like colors, white with white and yellow with yellow, pressing gently to secure them. Keep the finished cookies refrigerated in an air-tight container.

 

Speaking of favorites, cookie number nine came in second place for me.  And a close second at that, just a hair behind the cranberry bars.  I’m pretty sure that these Cognac Sugarplums were high on the list of everyone else too.  Deliciously made by my friend Becky, they were a huge hit all around.  And notice, I said ‘made', not ‘baked’.  These glistening gems of goodness are no bake!  Melted chocolate combines with chopped pecans and crushed vanilla cookies, and then, best of all, a good boozy dose of cognac!  Rolled into bite-sized balls, dusted with sugar, then studded with a plump, chewy, tart dried cherry.  All I can say is (and just like my friend Brandon said when she passed this recipe on to me), they’re way better than they even sound! 

NINE: Cognac Sugarplums Adapted from a recipe of my friend Brandon Stears Makes about 2 dozen 1 1/2-inch balls     6 oz semisweet chocolate 1/2 cup granulated sugar, plus extra for coating 1/4 cup light corn syrup 1/3 cup Cognac (or just Brandy really – Cognac is just a special type of Brandy) 2 1/2 cup finely crushed vanilla wafers 1 cup finely chopped pecans about 24 tart dried cherries Melt chocolate in a large heat-proof mixing bowl set over a large pan filled with about an inch of simmering water. (It’s important that the bowl fits into the pan, or the chocolate will burn from the direct heat of the stove.) Melt the chocolate, stirring frequently. (Of course, you can do this in a microwave too. Keep microwaving for 20 seconds, over and over, and stirring with a rubber spatula in between, until the chocolate is melted and smooth.) Remove from the heat, then stir in sugar, corn syrup and Cognac. Stir in the crushed vanilla wafers, and then the pecans. Roll the dough into 1 1/2-inch balls. Roll each ball in granulated sugar, then press a tart dried cherry into the top of each ball. Store refrigerated in an air-tight container. Will keep up to a week or so.

 

Cookie number ten, the Orange Poppy Seed Cookies, baked by my friend Dana.  Crisp and a little bit chewy, with golden sugar-dusted edges, bright orange flavor and tiny black polka-dots of poppy seeds.  They tasted deliciously of something very familiar, and it took me a few bites to figure it out, but then I realized… Fruit Loops!  Nearly identical in flavor and texture to one of my favorite sugary cereals.  Sure to be a hit with any kid, and best paired with a glass of cold milk, they’re great for dunking!

 

TEN: Orange Poppy Seed Cookies Adapted from a recipe of my friend Kate Cole Makes about 5 dozen cookies       2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting 2 Tbl poppy seeds ½ tsp baking powder ½ tsp salt 2 stick butter, room temperature 1 1/2 cups granulated sugar, plus more for dusting 2 large eggs, plus 1 egg white 2 Tbl freshly squeezed orange juice 2 Tbl finely grated orange zest, packed (from about 3 large oranges) 2 tsp finely grated lemon zest (from about 1 lemon) Note: The dough should be made several hours ahead or even the day before baking. In a medium-sized mixing bowl, whisk to combine the flour, poppy seeds, baking powder and salt. Set aside. Combine the butter and sugar in the bowl of an electric stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Beat at medium-high speed until light and fluffy, about 3 minutes. Using a rubber spatula, scrape down the sides of the bowl and the paddle. Add the eggs (just the two whole eggs, not the whites), orange juice, orange zest and lemon zest. Beat until blended, then scrape the bowl again. Add the flour mixture and mix on low until just combined. Scrape the sides of the bowl again, then give one last stir. Halve the dough. Shape each half into a long log. Lightly dust two sheets of parchment paper, then place one log on each sheet. Lightly dust the logs with flour, then roll in the parchment to a 1 ½ inch diameter, pressing a ruler along the edge of the log at each turn to narrow and shape the log. (This is really difficult to describe without a visual aid. Luckily, I’ve found one on the web. Check out this video from my alma mater. This ruler business comes at about 3:14.) Freeze until firm, at least 1 hour. (Remove the logs every ten minutes or so, during the first half hour, and lightly roll them on the countertop, to help maintain the round shape.) Pre-heat the oven to 375°F. Arrange the racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven. Line a few baking pans with parchment paper and set aside. Using a fork, beat the egg white in a small mixing bowl. Place about ½ cup granulated sugar in a large plate. Lightly but evenly brush each log with the beaten whites, then roll the log in the sugar, to evenly coat its sides. Slice each log into rounds of about 3/16-inch (just under ¼-inch) thickness with a sharp knife. To help maintain the round shape of the log and the resulting cookies, turn the log a little bit after each slice. (Each log should yield between 2 and 3 dozen rounds.) Space the rounds about 2-inches apart on the parchment-lined baking pans. Bake, 2 pans at a time (and keeping the rest of the dough refrigerated), until the edges are golden, 10-15 minutes, rotating the pans (trading their positions and turning them each 180 degrees) about half-way thorough. Let cool on the baking pans, placed on wire racks. Cool completely to room temperature before storing at room temperature in air-tight containers, for up to 3 days.

 

One of the most sophisticated cookies in the bunch, and beautifully made by my friend Daryl, these Rosemary Trees were really elegant, and simply delicious.  A crisp cut-out made with finely chopped fresh rosemary and freshly grated lemon zest, their aromatic herbal flavors echoed their pine tree shapes.  Really lovely, and a wonderful chic addition to the fun mix. 

 

ELEVEN: Rosemary Trees Adapted from a recipe of my friend Kate Cole Makes about 4 dozen 3-inch cookies        For the cookies: 3 ½ cups all-purpose flour 1 tsp salt 2 sticks unsalted butter, room temperature ¾ cup granulated sugar 1 Tbl finely grated lemon zest (from about 1 lemon)\ 1 Tbl very finely chopped fresh rosemary 1 large egg 1 tsp pure vanilla For the icing: 1 large egg white 1 ½ cups plus 2 Tbl powdered sugar, more if needed ½ tsp fresh lemon juice       To make the cookies: Whisk together the flour and salt in a medium-sized mixing bowl, then set aside. With an electric hand mixer or an electric stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the butter and sugar on medium speed until light and fluffy, about 3 minutes. Add the lemon zest and rosemary and mix to combine well. Add the egg and vanilla, then continue to beat until well blended and smooth, about 1 minute more. Reduce the speed to low, and gradually add the flour mixture. Mix only until the dough is just combined, being careful not to over-mix. Divide the dough into two equal portions. Roll out half of the dough between two pieces of parchment paper, to a thickness of 3/16-inch. Slide the dough and parchment to a cookie sheet and refrigerate until firm, about 30 minutes. Repeat with the remaining dough. Pre-heat the oven to 350°F and arrange the racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven. Line two cookie sheets with parchment paper. Using a 3-inch tall Christmas tree cookie cutter, cut out the cookies and arrange 1-inch apart on the prepared cookie sheets. Press the dough scraps together, roll again, and cut again. (If the dough becomes too soft, refrigerate for a little while.) Repeat re-rolling and re-cutting one more time, and then discard the scraps. When you have available cookie sheets, repeat with the remaining dough. Bake, 2 sheets at a time, until the cookie edges are golden brown, about 10-12 minutes. Be sure to rotate the pans (trading their positions and turning them each 180 degrees) about half-way thorough. Cool the cookies on the pan for about five minutes, then transfer them to a wire rack to cool completely with a metal spatula. To make the icing & frost the cookies: In a medium-sized mixing bowl, whisk together the egg white, sugar and lemon juice. Whisk until smooth. Transfer the icing to a pastry bag with a small round tip. Pipe the icing just inside the edges of the cookie, to simply out-line the rim. If the icing is too thick to pipe, squeeze it back into the bowl and whisk in water, one drop at a time, until it pipes easily but still retains its shape. If it is too thin, whisk in more powdered sugar, 1 teaspoon at a time. Allow the cookies to rest for about 30 minutes to 1 hour, to allow the icing to harden. Then store the cookies in an air-tight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.

 

And finally, cookie number twelve, the Espresso Chip Meringues.  Along with the Orange Poppy Seed Cookies and the Rosemary Trees, the recipe for these sugary, chocolate dotted clouds came from my chef friend Katie in New York.  And I passed the recipe on to my friend Jaime, an aspiring pastry chef herself, who did an incredible job making these wondrous meringues.  Crisp with a delicate crunch, which transforms in a few bites to a tender chew.  Deep espresso flavor with a smooth current of rich vanilla and tiny specks of chocolate scattered throughout.  Absolutely divine, they created quite a buzz among all the bakers.  (And I don’t think that had anything to do with the espresso! ) 
  

TWELVE: Espresso Chip Meringues Adapted from a recipe by Giada DeLaurentis, by way of my friend Katie Cole Makes 2 dozen meringues           3 large egg whites, room temperature Pinch of salt ¾ cup superfine sugar 1/8 tsp cream of tartar ¼ tsp vanilla extract 2 tsp instant espresso powder 2/3 cup mini semi-sweet chocolate chips Pre-heat the oven to 300°F and arrange the racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper, and set aside. Combine the egg whites and salt in the bowl of an electric stand mixer fitted with a whisk attachment. Beat on medium-low speed until frothy, about 1 minute. Increase the speed to medium-high, then gradually add the sugar, about 1 tablespoon at a time. Add the cream of tartar, vanilla extract and espresso powder. Increase the speed to high and beat until the mixture is thick and holds stiff peaks, about 3 to 5 minutes. (‘Stiff peaks’ means that when you remove the whisk from the eggs, a point should form and not fall down.) Using a rubber spatula, fold in the mini chocolate chips Drop dollops of the mixture, about 2 tablespoons or less per scoop, onto the parchment-lined baking sheet, spacing them 2-inches apart. You should get about 24 scoops per recipe. Bake for 30 minutes, then rotate the pans (trading their positions and turning them each 180 degrees) and bake until lightly golden brown, about another 30 minutes. Turn and rotate the pans again, then turn off the oven. Allow the meringues to cool while still in the oven, about 2 hours. Remove from the oven and let cool completely. Store at room temperature in a completely air-tight container for up to 3 days.