A Condo Building Get-Together

Sunday night we finally threw a long over-due get-together, and had up all our fellow condo dwellers to share some snacks, sips and treats.  I can pretty surely speak for everyone when I say, it was an absolute blast!  With loads of laughs, tons of food and lots (and lots!) of wine, the festivities lasted late into the night.  The wine flowed, courtesy of all our guests.  But the food, well of course that was my happy contribution.

DIPS: Hot Crab & Artichoke Garlicky White Bean with Mustard Greens & Bacon with French bread crostini     BITES: Roasted Jalapeño & Hot Pickled Peppers, Filled with Whipped Feta Deviled Eggs Two Ways:  with Cumin & Curry, with Fines Herbs Puff Pastry Tart with Gruyere, Bacon, Scallions & Herbs Rosemary Salted Nuts   TREATS: Mini Chocolate-Orange Cupcakes with White Chocolate-Espresso Ganache Frosting

Reflecting on this menu again, I can look back and remember getting raving compliments on each and every dish.  Everyone had their own favorite, and it feels good knowing that each dish too was a favorite!  The hot crab and artichoke dip was one of mine, I think.  It starts with some truly gorgeous jumbo lump crab, sweet and plump and incredibly fresh.  (I still am in awe by how good this canned lump crab is, which I find a Costco, a pound for about $18.)  Folded together with sweet sautéed onions, red flecks of bell pepper and tender pale green artichoke hearts, then cloaked in a lemony sauce of cream cheese, Parmesan, parsley and chives.  Baked ‘til bubbling with a crisp and buttery, golden brown breadcrumb crust, it’s seriously tasty, incredibly, totally good.    

The white bean dip is seriously good too.  Very similar to the garlicky white bean puree I fixed nearly a year ago – silky smooth, with lots of soft sage flavor, a bit of bright lemon, and huge notes of creamy, mellow garlic – but with the delicious addition of something that never hurts, bacon.  And on top of that, bitter flecks of mustard greens, tenderly sautéed in the bacon fat.  Oh yeah, an extra bit of bacon is always a recipe for success!

Ah, peppers stuffed with whipped feta.  Heavenly.  And this divine recipe has successfully transformed itself through three delicious reincarnations.  Saveur Magazine originally published this recipe with much larger Fresno or Anaheim chile peppers in mind.  It was the cover recipe from a few months ago, and my friend Ralph, whose word on food I always take to heart, made them right away then promptly texted me with a photograph and a strong recommendation.  A few weeks later, I tasted them for myself at my friend Cary’s house party.  And Cary had the ingenious idea to use mini, multi-colored bell peppers (which one can more or less usually find at places like Costco) to achieve perfectly bite-sized hors d’oevures.  I didn’t luck out this week – Costco was all out of baby peppers.  But at the last minute I decided to try the recipe with lightly roasted jalapeños, and some hot pickled yellow peppers.  They turned out fabulously!  Both were pretty spicy, the pickled peppers more than the jalapeños, but neither were too wickedly hot.  And with the silky feta filling of tart yogurt, bright lemon, full oregano and fresh parsley, the cool balance was right on target.  Sensational!

And oh, deviled eggs!  They’re becoming one of my signature items!  In the summertime months, I’m always in the mood to make them as classically as possible, with nothing more that mayonnaise, mustard and a bit of parsley for color.  But come the cooler months, I like to dress them up with special ingredients.  A little fancy twist is all they need to turn them from basic picnic fare into elegant cocktail party hors d’oeuvres.  Tonight I prepared two special twists.  The cumin and curry deviled eggs were Ben’s favorite, with warm, exotic spices added to the yolk mixture, lending a rich yellow hue.  And the fines herbs deviled eggs – heavily speckled with fresh tarragon, chives, chervil and parsley, a classic and utterly perfect combination of herbs – was the fan favorite in the category of deviled eggs.  I’ve made both of these versions over and over, and every time, they are the hugest of hits!

I know I said the crab dip was one of my favorite dishes of the night.  But the tart below took the title of my absolute fave.  Tender, golden, crisp puff pastry.  With nutty melted gruyere cheese over a rich sauce of creamy ricotta.  Sweet, smoky, thickly sliced bacon, a little crunchy, a little chewy.  Floral undertones of lightly sautéed leaves of fresh thyme.  Mellow flecks of sautéed scallions, with a perfect level of pungency.   And a final sprinkling of fresh bright herbs, of the fines variety again, tender green leaves of tarragon, chervil, parsley and chives.  Each delicious bite made me crave another, and it took all my hostessly etiquette, to keep from hogging the entire thing!

And the last savory snack – a mixture of rosemary-scented nuts.  Sweet, salty, slightly spicy, and huge with fresh rosemary flavor.  The nuts I used were pecans and hazelnuts, because they were what I had lingering in the cupboards.  But any sort of toasted nuts will do splendidly – walnuts, cashews, almonds.  And talk about addictive!  There’s just something about the rich, full flavor of rosemary that’s so completely alluring.  Combined with sugar and salt and a bit of cayenne pepper – the captivating flavor is heightened even more.  
  

And finally, a sweet treat.  Mini bites of my favorite cupcake.  From the pages of my favorite chocolate cookbook, Chocolate Obsession, by Michael Recchiuti.  The man’s a genius, on the scale of Willy Wonka.  Every single recipe I’ve tried has been over-the-top delicious.  If you’ve got a foodie on your holiday shopping list, I’d definitely recommend this book.

Anyways, these cupcakes.   The cupcake part itself is a result of the best all-around chocolate cake recipe I know of.  But with the incredible addition of orange zest.  I’m sure you know by now, I love the chocolate-orange combination.  (As does Recchiuti, by the way.  This lovely duo graces many a page in his book.)  The effect of the pairing in this recipe is even more fantastic than ever – tender, moist crumb with deep chocolate and bright orange flavor.  And for the frosting, a white chocolate ganache with a touch of espresso! 

Chocolate!  Orange! White Chocolate! Espresso!  Can you think of anything better?  Didn’t think so.  These are bites of pure perfection! 

 

Hot Crab & Artichoke Dip Makes about 4 cups       2 Tbl extra-virgin olive oil 1 large yellow onion, peeled & chopped 1 large red bell pepper, cored, seeded and chopped 1 15-oz can artichoke hearts, chopped 8 oz cream cheese, room temperature 1/2 cup mayonnaise 1/4 cup fresh lemon juice (from 1 to 2 lemons) zest of 1 lemon 1/2 tsp hot sauce (such as Tabasco) 1/2 cup plus 1/2 cup finely grated Parmesan cheese, divided 1/2 cup chopped flat-leaf parsley 1/4 cup sliced chives 1 # canned jumbo lump crab meat, drained (I highly recommend this brand) 1 cup fresh bread crumbs 2 Tbl butter, melted   Pre-heat the oven to 400°F.  Arrange a rack in the middle oven position.   Heat a large sauté pan over medium-high heat, then swirl in the olive oil and add the onion.  Season with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, until translucent and tender, about 5 minutes.  Add the bell pepper and cook, about 2 minutes longer.  Add the artichoke hearts and continue to cook, about 2 minutes longer.  Remove from the heat, and cool at room temperature until needed.    Using an electric stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or a hand-held electric mixer), beat the creamed cheese on medium-high until light and fluffy, about 2 minutes.  Scrape down the sides of the bowl with a rubber spatula, then add the mayonnaise, lemon juice, lemon zest, hot sauce and 1/2 cup Parmesan.  Mix on medium-high until incorporated and smooth, about 1 minute longer.  Add the parsley and chives and stir by hand with the rubber spatula to combine.  Add the crab meat and the slightly cooled vegetable mixture to the cream cheese mixture.  Fold together, gently but thoroughly with the rubber spatula.  Transfer the mixture into appropriately sized casserole dish, smoothing the top with the rubber spatula.    In a small mixing bowl, toss to combine the fresh bread crumbs with the melted butter.  Add the remaining 1/2 cup grated parmesan.  Season with salt and pepper, then toss to combine.  Evenly sprinkle the breadcrumb mixture over the crab mixture in the dish.   Bake until golden brown on top and bubbling, about 30 minutes.  Serve warm with toasted French bread crostini.

 

Garlicky White Bean Dip with Mustard Greens & Bacon Makes about 4 cups        1 1/2 cups dried great northern beans 12 garlic cloves, peeled 2 bay leaves 1 bunch mustard greens, washed, stems removed, and torn into large pieces 10 fresh sage leaves about 1 cup extra-virgin olive oil 1 lemon, juiced 12 slices bacon First, cook the beans: Sort through the beans and discard any wayward pebbles. Then, either cover with cool water and soak overnight at room temperature, or cover with boiling water and soak one hour. Pour off the soaking liquid.  Add the beans to a medium pot, along with the sage and bay leaves and about 1 tsp salt.  Cover with water and simmer gently until very tender, about 45 minutes to an hour, stirring occasionally. When tender, remove the bay leaves and drain, saving the cooking liquid. While beans are cooking, prep the garlic: Pull apart the head of garlic into separate cloves.  Slice off the tough bottom ends of each clove, and remove the peels, leaving the garlic cloves whole.  Place peeled garlic cloves in a small sauce pot and cover just barely with extra-virgin olive oil, about 1 cup’s worth.  Turn heat to medium and simmer until garlic is tender and lightly golden brown, 30-40 minutes.  Set aside until needed   Cook the bacon:  Roughly chop the bacon, then add to a hot sauté pan and cook until just crispy.  Remove the bacon with a slotted spoon, and place atop a bed of paper towels.  Set aside until needed.    And cook the mustard greens:  Return the pan with the bacon fat to the heat (about medium-high).  Add the prepped mustard leaves to the pan, season with a pinch of salt and pepper, and cook, stirring frequently, until tender.  Then remove from the heat and set aside until needed.  Now, make the dip:  Add the beans (along with the sage leaves), 1/4 cup of the garlic-cooking oil, 1 tsp salt and about half of the cooked garlic to the bowl of a food processor.  Puree to smooth, then taste it.  If you’d like more garlic, add a little more, or even all if it.  (The strength of garlic can vary widely, so make sure you go by taste.)  Puree for about two minutes, until the mixture is incredibly smooth.  Add bean cooking liquid as needed, to give a spreadable consistency.  Add the bacon and the cooked mustard greens, then pulse a few times to evenly distribute the greens and bacon, dicing them up a little bit but not pureeing them.   To store, refrigerate in an air-tight container.  Will keep about five days.  Should be served at room temperature or slightly warm.

 

French Bread Crostini This recipe is a repeat from a previous dinner party.  (It’s that good!)  Check it out here.

 
  

Peppers Filled with Whipped Feta Adapted from Saveur Magazine, August/September 2010 issue Makes about 20 bite-sized hors d’oeuvres        20 small jalapeño peppers OR 20 pickled peppers 4 oz feta cheese, crumbled 1 Tbl extra-virgin olive oil 1 Tbl Greek yogurt 2 tsp minced fresh parsley leaves 1/2 tsp finely grated lemon zest pinch dried oregano 1 egg yolk 1/4 cup finely grated parmesan cheese kosher slat & freshly ground black pepper, to taste   If using fresh jalapenos:  Pre-heat the oven to 475°F.  Place the whole peppers on a foil-lined baking pan and roast 5 minutes.  Shake the pan to turn the peppers, then roast again for 5 minutes longer.  Place the peppers into a small mixing bowl or container, then cover with plastic wrap or a lid. Let stand 15 minutes to steam, then remove the covering.    Now, for both the jalapeños or the pickled peppers:  Slice each pepper, length-wise from top to bottom, not exactly in half, but slicing from just above the stem, to just above the bottom tip.  You’ll remove about a third of the pepper.  Discard this part, along with the seeds from inside the pepper.  Use a sharp paring knife to also remove and discard the inner membranes from the pepper (which along with the seeds, are responsible for much of the pepper’s heat).  Reserve the prepped peppers until needed.      To make the filling:  Combine the feta, olive oil, yogurt, parsley, lemon zest, oregano and egg yolk in the bowl of an electric stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment.  (You can also use an electric hand-held mixer.)  Season with a good pinch of salt and pepper, then beat on medium-high until well combined and smooth, about 2 minutes.      Transfer the feta mixture to a pastry bag or heavy-duty plastic bag.  Slice the tip to create an opening about 3/8-inch wide.  Pipe the mixture generously into the prepared peppers, then arrange the peppers on a foil-lined sheet tray.  Sprinkle the stuffed peppers evenly with the grated parmesan cheese.  Refrigerate, covered with plastic, until ready to cook.   When ready to serve, pre-heat the oven broiler, and arrange an oven rack about 10 inches beneath the broiler.  Broil until the cheese is bubbly and golden brown, about 5 to 6 minutes.  Transfer the peppers to a platter and serve warm.

 

Deviled Eggs with Cumin & Curry Makes 24 deviled eggs       12 large eggs  3/4 cup mayonnaise 1 Tbl whole grain mustard 1 tsp ground cumin 1 tsp curry powder, plus more for garnish 1/2 tsp turmeric cumin seed, for garnish kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper First hard-boil the eggs: Bring a pot of water to a boil.  Using a slotted spoon, carefully lower the eggs into the boiling water.  Lower the heat to maintain a bare simmer – If the water bubbles too vigorously, the eggs will knock into each other and crack.  Simmer gently for 14 minutes.  Lift the eggs from the simmering water with the slotted spoon and transfer them to a bowl filled with ice water.  Allow the eggs to rest in the ice water until cool, about 10 minutes.  Peel the eggs. Slice a small sliver off the top and bottom ends of each egg.  Slice the eggs in half, width-wise.  Scoop out the cooked yolks and reserve in a mixing bowl.  Carefully rinse the whites under cool running water and place on a double layer of paper towels to dry.  Thoroughly mash the yolks with a potato masher, or push them through a mesh sieve.  Add the mayonnaise, mustard, ground cumin, curry and turmeric to the egg yolks, and stir until well combined.  Taste the egg yolk mixture and season as needed with salt and pepper.  Fill a pastry bag, fitted with a medium star tip, with the egg yolk mixture.  Pipe the yolk mixture into the egg white cups, filling them in a circular motion and forming a small dollop rising above the egg white.  Garnish with the cumin seeds and a sprinkling of curry powder.  Serve at room temperature.

Deviled Eggs with Fines Herbs Makes 24 deviled eggs     12 large eggs 1/2 cup mayonnaise 1 Tbl whole grain mustard 1 Tbl finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley 1 Tbl finely chopped fresh tarragon leaves 1 Tbl finely chopped fresh chives 1 Tbl finely chopped fresh chervil leaves kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper First hard-boil the eggs: Bring a pot of water to a boil.  Using a slotted spoon, carefully lower the eggs into the boiling water.  Lower the heat to maintain a bare simmer – If the water bubbles too vigorously, the eggs will knock into each other and crack.  Simmer gently for 14 minutes.  Lift the eggs from the simmering water with the slotted spoon and transfer them to a bowl filled with ice water.  Allow the eggs to rest in the ice water until cool, about five minutes.  Peel the eggs. Slice a small sliver off the top and bottom ends of each egg.  Slice the eggs in half, width-wise.  Scoop out the cooked yolks and reserve in a mixing bowl.  Carefully rinse the whites under cool running water and place on a double layer of paper towels to dry.  Thoroughly mash the yolks with a potato masher, or push them through a mesh sieve.  Add the mayonnaise, mustard, parsley, tarragon, chives and chervil to the egg yolks, and stir until well combined.  Taste the egg yolk mixture and season as needed with salt and pepper.  Fill a pastry bag, fitted with a medium star tip, with the egg yolk mixture.  Pipe the yolk mixture into the egg white cups, filling them in a circular motion and forming a small dollop rising above the egg white.  Serve at room temperature.

Puff Pastry Tart with Gruyere, Bacon, Scallions & Herbs Adapted from Sunday Suppers at Lucques by Suzanne Goin Makes about 24 bite-sized squares         1 sheet frozen puff pastry 2 egg yolks, divided 1/2 pound thickly-sliced bacon 3 bunches scallions 1 Tbl fresh thyme leaves 1/2 cup whole milk ricotta 1/4 cup sour cream 1 Tbl extra-virgin olive oil 6 oz gruyere cheese, coarsely grated 1 Tbl parsley leaves 1 Tbl tarragon leaves 1 Tbl chervil leaves 1 Tbl sliced chives kosher salt & freshly ground black pepper, to taste Prep the tart shell: Allow the puff pastry to defrost in the refrigerator, for about 2 hours or so, until it can be unfolded easily without ripping. Unroll onto a parchment-lined baking sheet.  Score a 1/4-inch border with a paring knife along the edge of the pastry. Make an egg wash by mixing one yolk with 1/2 tsp water.  Brush this egg wash along the border, only using as much as you need. Place in the freezer until you are ready to use. Pre-heat the oven to 400°F.    Slice the bacon cross-wise in 1/4-inch wide slices.  Heat a large sauté pan over medium-high heat for about 2 minutes, then add the sliced bacon and cook, stirring occasionally, until crispy.  Add the sliced scallions and the thyme and stir to combine.  Cook for about 1 minute longer, stirring occasionally.  Transfer the bacon-scallion mixture to a baking pan or plate, to cool.    In a small mixing bowl, combine the ricotta, sour cream, olive oil, remaining egg yolk, and about a third of the grated gruyere.  Season with a pinch of salt and pepper and mix with a rubber spatula until smooth.  Spread the ricotta mixture evenly over the puff pastry, keeping within the borderlines.           Scatter the remaining grated gruyere, and then the bacon-scallion mixture, evenly over the tart.  Bake until the cheese is bubbling and the crust is golden brown, rotating the baking pan half-way through, for a total baking time of about 25 minutes.  Be sure to lift up the edge of the tart and take a peek at the bottom side, to make sure the crust is cooked through.  Remove from the oven, and transfer the tart to a cutting board.  Slice six by four, to get bit-sized pieces.  Sprinkle with the parsley, tarragon, chervil and chives, then season with a sprinkling of salt and pepper.  Serve right on the cutting board, for a rustic presentation.

Rosemary Salted Nuts Makes 2 cups        2 cups mixed nuts (pecans, walnuts, almonds, cashews, hazelnuts, etc…) 2 Tbl butter 1/4 cup light brown sugar 2 tsp finely chopped fresh rosemary leaves 2 tsp kosher salt 1/4 tsp cayenne   Toast the nuts:  Spread the raw nuts on a parchment-lined baking pan and roast in a 350°F oven until toasted and aromatic, about fifteen minutes or so, rotating the pan about half-way through.  Remove from the oven and cool to room temperature.    Combine the butter, brown sugar, rosemary, salt and cayenne in a medium-sized saucepot.  Stirring frequently, bring to a boil over medium-high heat, then add the nuts and stir to combine.  Continue to cook, stirring constantly, until most of the liquid is reduced and the nuts are coated.      Spread the nuts evenly over a parchment-lined baking pan and allow to cool to room temperature.  When cool, carefully break apart the stuck-together nuts.  These nuts can be stored in an air-tight contained at room temperature for about 1 week.

Chocolate-Orange Mini Cupcakes with White Chocolate-Espresso Frosting Adapted from Chocolate Obsession by Michael Recchiuti Makes a little over 4 dozen mini cupcakes (or 1 dozen regularly-sized cupcakes)       For the cupcakes: 1 cup all-purpose flour 1/3 cup unsweetened cocoa powder 1/2 tsp kosher salt 1/2 tsp baking powder 1/2 tsp baking soda 1 cp granulated sugar 1 extra-large egg 1/2 cup whole milk 1/4 cup vegetable or canola oil 1/2 tsp vanilla extract 1 Tbl espresso powder, dissolved in 1/2 cup boiling water finely grated zest from 1 orange   For the frosting: 12 oz white chocolate (I like this brand, and it’s easy to find in most grocery stores.) 1/2 cup plus 1 Tbl heavy whipping cream 2 Tbl espresso powder   To make the cupcakes: Pre-heat the oven to 325°F.  Arrange the oven racks in the upper and lower third positions (for the mini cupcakes) or one in the middle position (for regularly-sized cupcakes).    In a large mixing bowl, whisk to combine the flour, cocoa powder, salt, baking powder, baking soda and sugar.  Set aside.   In a medium-sized mixing bowl, whisk combine the egg, milk, oil, vanilla extract, the dissolved espresso powder and the orange zest.  Pour the wet ingredients into the dry ingredients and whisk to combine.    Either line a mini (or regularly-sized) muffin pan with mini (or regularly-sized) cupcake liners, or spray with vegetable-oil spray.  (It’s best to spray at the last minute.  Keeps the sticking to a minimum.)   Evenly divide the batter between the prepared muffin cups.  For the mini cupcakes, use a scant tablespoon per cup.  For regularly-sized cupcakes, fill each cup about 2/3 to 3/4-way full.  Bake until puffed and springy to the touch, about 12 minutes for mini cupcakes and between 15 and 20 minutes for regularly-sized cupcakes.  Let cool completely in the pan on a wire rack.  (Cooling completely also keeps the sticking factor down.)  When cool remove the cupcake from the muffin cups.       To make the frosting:  Place the white chocolate in a medium-sized mixing bowl and set aside.    In a small saucepot set over medium heat, whisk together the cream and the espresso powder, and bring to a boil.  Pour the hot cream over the chocolate and whisk until melted.    At this point, depending on the brand of chocolate you use, you may need to cool down the frosting a bit, in order for it to keep it’s shape atop the cupcakes.  Place the bowl of frosting over a large bowl filled with ice water, and stir with a rubber spatula until thickened to a spreadable frosting-like consistency.  Then transfer the frosting to a piping bag fitted with a star attachment (smaller star for the mini cupcakes, and a larger star for the regularly-sized ones).  Top each cupcake with frosting by piping it in a circular motion, starting from the outside, and curling your way in, ending with a pointed tip.    Refrigerate until needed, but be sure to bring to room temperature before serving.

Beaujolais, The Other November Holiday

Last Sunday, on the last evening of our long and lazy Thanksgiving weekend, we held another mini celebration with our friends Edgar and Bill, in honor of another November holiday, Beaujolais.  An easy, relaxed night with our neat, new friends – not nearly the to-do of Turkey Day.  And admittedly we celebrated belatedly by about a week and a half.  For Beaujolais Day, a French harvest celebration marking the early release of Beaujolais wine, comes every year on the third Thursday in November. 

While sharing an afternoon coffee with Edgar a couple weeks ago in their wonderful, beautiful antique shop, musing with him over what type of food I’d prepare and what sort of wine they’d bring for our up-coming dinner party together, Edgar had the brilliant idea of making it a Beaujolais night.  I jumped at the notion right away.  I’ve always been fond of this other November foodie night, always loved the indulgent idea of a second celebratory dinner of wonderful wine and gorgeous food in the middle of harvest season. 

Beaujolais Nouveau, from the Beaujolais region of Burgundy, France, is a young, light and fruity red wine, made from the Gamay grape.  None too complex or ever expensive, but certainly tasty and rather refreshing, it’s best paired with simple, rustic fare.  Chicken and goat cheese are two especially regarded cohorts.   And so, our Beaujolais menu:

Crostini with Fig Compote & Goat Cheese      Chicken Thighs Braised in Red Wine Vinegar Sauce Wild Rice with Dried Cranberries Brussels Sprout Leaves Sautéed in Brown Butter      Persimmon Bread Pudding with Whipped Cream

While uncorking the bottles of wine, and putting the finishing touches on dinner, we snacked on these crispy French bread crostini, topped with dollops of creamy, whipped goat cheese and a savory compote of dried Black Mission figs.  With aromatic fresh thyme, sweet shallots melted in butter, and a thick reduction of ruby red Port, the fig compote was wonderfully well- balanced in flavors - lightly sweet, but deep with an earthy richness.  And perfectly paired with the light, tangy goat cheese and crisp, buttery crostini.   A great start to our Beaujolais feast!

 

Chicken Thighs Braised in Red Wine Vinegar Sauce.  I truly don’t know how appealing this dish sounds to most people.  With its chief components being the most boring of birds and the most ordinary of vinegars, it could very well sound way too dull to be delicious.  But to me, it has always sounded utterly marvelous.  I’ve happened upon various Vinegar Chicken recipes in several different cookbooks, magazines and websites over the years.  And these encounters always gave me a little thrill, set my mouth watering and my imagination rushing.  Something about these all-too simple ingredients, coaxed and charmed into something else entirely, something with all the promise of being altogether different, anything but mundane, and wholly extraordinary.  It’s a wonder to me, that up until now, I’d never in reality gotten past the imagination stage, and actually into the kitchen to cook some up for real.
   

After the obvious foreshadowing of the prior paragraph, laden with its musings of marvelous hypothetical results, is it a surprise at all when I tell you that this dish did indeed turn out stupendously?  Tender, slowly braised chicken thighs,  swathed in a velvety sauce – rich and smooth with a finishing of cream, subtly tart with a hint of honey sweetness, with buttery speckles of sweet shallots and mellow garlic, and an intoxicating essence of fresh tarragon.  This dish, with such humble ingredients, was anything but humble itself!

Our sides too were at once simple and fabulous.  The wild rice I prepared just as I do for any (nearly every) rice dish in my repertoire – with sautéed shallots, chicken stock, a bay leaf and a sprig of fresh thyme.  As simple as can be, and then bejeweled with plump dried cranberries.  It’s a lovely little dish, with it’s deep brown earthiness, delightfully chewy bite, and hidden gems of dazzling, tart, sweet cranberries.  And quite another thing altogether, from regular old white rice. 

As I learned long ago from a very wise woman (my first chef and teacher, Jen, from Just a Taste in Ithaca), nothing (and I mean absolutely nothing) goes quite as well with Brussels sprouts (or most anything, for that matter) as browned butter.  Browned butter is just that – butter, slowly simmered until it turns a gorgeous golden brown.  As the butter deepens in color, its aroma deepens too, transforming into the most amazing scent imaginable – rich, toasty, nutty, warm – fully, utterly intoxicating.  One of my most favorite ingredients, browned butter truly holds the power to enhance just about any dish, sweet or savory.  
   

I riffed on Jen’s famous recipe, of brown butter-sautéed sprouts with garlic, pecans, lemon and Romano cheese, and came up with a quick version of my own - keeping the garlic, and of course the browned butter, saving the pecans and cheese for another special night, and switching out lemon juice for red wine vinegar, to echo our chicken dish.   The sprouts I changed a bit too.  Rather than just slicing them into halves, I carefully peeled back their coiled layers, separating these dense orbs into delicate, pale green curls.  A quick flip in hot sauté pan, with the rich, full flavor of the caramelized butter and a bright hit of vinegar, and these lovely leaves took on crisp, golden brown edges, and a wonderfully warm tenderness.

And for dessert, another humble dish that works magic with some of fall’s most wonderful bounty – Persimmon bread pudding.  You’ll probably have noticed some persimmons in your local fruit markets this time of year, shyly peeking around the more popular apples and pears.  At first glance, they look a bit like tomatoes.  But something about their stout shape, curled leaves and rosy orange glow, may have clued you in to the truth that they taste nothing like tomatoes at all.  Immensely delicate in flavor, lightly sweet with rounded corners of tartness and just a suggestion of bitter, reminiscent of any number of fruits (peaches, pears, apples) but at the same time none at all.  They’re really quite charming, persimmons.  And fun to experiment with too. 

My latest persimmon experiment evolved quite nicely into a warm and gooey bread pudding.  Into a simple custard of eggs, sugar and cream, I folded a smooth puree of fresh, ripe persimmons, along with a warm dose of cinnamon and nutmeg.  This silky, pale orange sauce soaked indulgently into all the tender nooks and airy pockets of  some soft golden cubes of plush Challah bread.  Baked in the oven, it emerged steaming and fragrant, deliciously golden brown on top, densely sticky inside.  With a cool, lightly sweetened dollop of whipped cream, it was near perfect.  And a delicate garnish of paper-thin, oven-dried persimmon slices made it just that.  The wispy orange circles further served as a clue to this dessert’s main ingredient, a nod to to the mysterious and subtle persimmon flavor coyly lurking within. 

 

Crostini with Fig Compote & Goat Cheese Adapted from Gourmet Magazine, September 2003 Makes about 24 hors d’oeuvres, enough for 4 to 6 guests      2 Tbl butter 1 large shallot, peeled and finely diced 1/2 tsp minced fresh thyme leaves 1 bay leaf 4 oz dried Black Mission figs, finely chopped (about 3/4 cup) 3/4 cup Port kosher salt & freshly ground black pepper, to taste about 24 French bread crostini, from a half baguette 5 to 6 oz creamy goat cheese 3 fresh figs, sliced into thin wedges about 24 small clusters of thyme leaves, for garnish   To make the fig compote: In a small sauce pot, melt the butter over medium-low heat.  Add the shallot, season with a sprinkling of salt and pepper, then cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and translucent, about 3 minutes.  Add the chopped thyme and bay leaf and cook 1 minute more.      Add the chopped figs and stir to combine.  Then add the port.  Cover, then bring to a boil.  Gently simmer until the figs are tender, about 10 minutes.  If liquid remains in the pan, remove the lid and simmer, stirring frequently, until most of the liquid has evaporated, about 3 to 4 minutes.  Discard the bay leaf.  Transfer the compote to a bowl and cool to room temperature.  Can be kept refrigerated in an air-tight container for up to 5 days.    To assemble the hors d’oeuvres:  Top each crostini with a heaping teaspoon of the fig compote, then another heaping teaspoon of the goat cheese.  Garnish with a slice of fresh fig and a small cluster of thyme leaves.  Serve immediately.

 

Chicken Thighs Braised in Red Wine Vinegar Sauce Adapted from a recipe by Paula Wolfert on FoodandWine.com Serves 4 to 6      1 1/2 cups red wine vinegar (I really like this brand.) 3/4 cup chicken stock (And for chicken stock, I really like this.) 1 1/2 Tbl honey 1 1/2 Tbl tomato paste 2 Tbl plus 2 Tbl unsalted butter, divided 2 Tbl extra-virgin olive oil 8 large chicken thighs (with skin and bone), trimmed of excess skin and fat 4 garlic cloves, very thinly sliced 4 large shallots, peeled and thinly sliced 1 cup plus 2 Tbl dry white wine 1/4 cup heavy cream 1/4 cup chopped fresh tarragon kosher salt & freshly ground black pepper, to taste   Combine the vinegar, chicken stock, honey and tomato paste in a medium-sized sauce pot.  Bring to a boil, stirring frequently.  Then reduce the heat to maintain a simmer.  Simmer until reduced to about 3/4 cup, about 8 to 10 minutes.  Set aside.   In a large heavy skillet, heat the butter and olive oil over medium-high heat.  Meanwhile, pat the chicken thighs dry with paper towels, then season liberally with salt and pepper.  Add half of the chicken to the hot pan, skin side down.  Reduce the heat to medium, and cook until well-browned.  Flip, and brown the opposite sides as well.  Transfer the chicken to a plate, placing them skin-side up.  Repeat with the remaining chicken thighs.   Pour out and discard the fat in the pan, but try to leave all the browned bits in the pan.  Add the remaining 2 Tbl butter and melt over medium heat.  Add the sliced shallots and garlic and cook, stirring frequently, until softened and golden brown, about 5 minutes.  Add the white wine and boil until reduced to roughly 1/3 cup.  Add the vinegar sauce and stir to combine.  Return the chicken to the skillet, skin side up.  Cover and gently simmer over low heat until cooked through, about 30 minutes.    Transfer the chicken to serving plates, then add the cream and tarragon to the sauce.  Stir to combine, then taste and season as needed with salt and pepper.  Spoon the sauce over the chicken thighs and serve immediately.

 

 

Wild Rice with Dried Cranberries Serves  4 to 6     1 cup wild rice 2 Tbl butter 1/2 cup finely diced shallot 1 bay leaf 2 thyme sprigs 1 cup chicken stock (I like this brand and type.) 1 cup water 1/2 cup dried cranberries kosher salt & freshly ground black pepper, to taste   Rinse the rice with cool running water in a colander, and set aside. Melt the butter over medium heat in a medium-sized sauce pot.  Add the shallots, season with a sprinkling of salt and pepper, then cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and translucent, about 3 minutes.  Add the chopped thyme and bay leaf and cook 1 minute more.  Add the rice, and cook, stirring constantly, for 1 to 2 minutes. Add the chicken stock and water.  Bring to a simmer, stirring occasionally.  When the liquid comes to a simmer, cover the pot with a lid, and decrease the heat to low, in order to maintain a bare simmer.  Peek under the lid from time to time, to make sure you’ve got just a bare simmer.  Simmer with the lid on until the rice is tender and ‘popped’ (you’ll see what I mean – the white insides pop out of the black skins a bit) and all the liquid is evaporated and absorbed.  To make sure all the liquid is gone, tilt the pan to the side.  If water rises up the sides of the pan, continue cook the rice a little while longer. Once all the liquid is evaporated/absorbed, turn off the heat and allow the rice to rest five minutes, still covered.  Add the cranberries, stir to combine, then rest again for about 10 minutes, still covered. Then remove the lid and fluff with a fork.  Serve hot.

 

 

Brussels Sprouts Leaves Sautéed in Brown Butter Serves  4 to 6     1 1/2 pounds Brussels sprouts 1/2 stick unsalted butter 1 clove garlic, peeled and minced 2 tsp red wine vinegar kosher salt & freshly ground black pepper, to taste   To prep the Brussels sprouts:  Working with one sprout at a time, slice across the stem, at the base of the sprout – this will loosen the outer leaves attached to the lower stem.  Peel off and discard any tough and discolored outer leaves.  Reserve the un-blemished, tender leaves.  Then repeat, slicing across the base of the sprout, a little further up, to loosen another layer of leaves.  Peel off the leaves and reserve.  Continue this slicing and peeling, until you’ve separated the entire sprout into single leaves.  Repeat with the remaining Brussels sprouts.  Reserve.    To make the browned butter: Place the butter in your smallest saucepot.  Melt over low heat, and then leave it over the heat until specks that fall to the bottom of the pot turn deep golden brown.  Remove from the heat and cool to room temperature.  (You won’t need to use all of this browned butter for this single recipe, but it’s hard to get good results (without burning) using anything less than 1/2 stick.  Save the left-over browned butter and use it to sauté up anything you wish.  It will magically turn any vegetable into something spectacular!)   To assemble the dish:  Heat a large sauté pan over medium-high heat for about 2 minutes.  Add about 1 to 2 tablespoons of the browned butter (making sure to get lots of the brown specks) and swirl to coat the pan.  Add the minced garlic, and cook, stirring constantly, no more than 30 seconds, until just lightly golden brown.  Add the Brussels sprout leaves and toss and stir immediately.  Season with a sprinkling of salt and pepper, then sauté, tossing and stirring frequently, until lightly golden brown, tender and crisp.  Sprinkle with the red wine vinegar, then toss to coat.  Taste, then season as needed with salt and pepper.  Transfer to a serving platter and serve immediately.

 

Persimmon Bread Pudding Serves about 8 There are two varieties of persimmons you’ll likely find in the fruit market during the autumn and winter months – the smaller, sweeter, firm yet tender Fuyu persimmons (the kind to use in this recipe); and the larger, more astringent variety of Hachiya persimmons, which remain all but inedible until they are very soft and very, very ripe.  Be sure to keep this difference in mind while searching through the produce aisles.       about 1 1/2 loaves Challah bread 1 1/2 cups Fuyu persimmon puree, from about 4 peeled Fuyu persimmons 3 large eggs 1 cup sugar, divided in half, plus more for sprinkling on top 1/2 tsp cinnamon 1/2 tsp nutmeg 2 cups whole milk 1 cup heavy whipping cream 2 Tbl butter, sliced into small cubes, plus more for greasing the pan   Pre-heat the oven to 350ᵒF and arrange a rack in the middle position.    Slice the Challah loaves cross-wise into 1 1/2-inch thick slices.  Remove most of the crust from the perimeter of the slices (no need to be too thorough here – just do as best you can) then slice each bread slice into 1 1/2-inch cubes.  You should have about 12 cups bread.  If not, cube up a couple more slices.    Arrange the bread cubes in a single layer over a large baking pan.  Bake for about 10 minutes, then toss the cubes to flip most of them over, and continue to bake about 5 to 7 minutes more, until the bread feels firm and dry, like it’s stale.  Cool to room temperature.   A note on pureeing the persimmons:  It’s best to quarter them first, length-wise through the stem.  Then slice off the stems and a small portion of the core.  Then slide your knife just beneath the skin to separate it from the flesh.  Puree in a food processor until smooth.  Four Fuyu persimmons should yield about 1 1/2 cups of puree.     In a large mixing bowl, whisk the eggs together with 1/2 cup sugar, the cinnamon and nutmeg.  Set aside.   In a medium-sized saucepot, combine the cream, milk and the remaining 1/2 cup sugar.  Bring to a simmer over medium heat.  Remove from the heat, then slowly add the hot cream mixture to the egg mixture, whisking constantly as you pour.  Add the persimmon puree to the custard and whisk to combine.  Add the toasted bread cubes and toss to coat, using a rubber spatula.  Allow the mixture to rest about 15 minutes at room temperature, stirring occasionally with the rubber spatula.   Generously butter the bottoms and sides of a medium-sized casserole dish, roughly 10-inches by 10-inches.  Pour the custard-soaked bread into the prepared dish.  Dot evenly with the 2 tablespoons of butter, then sprinkle evenly with about 1 tablespoon sugar.  Bake until puffed, golden brown on top and cooked through, about 1 hour.  Remove from the oven and allow to rest at room temperature for about 15 minutes before slicing and serving.  Slice into portion-sized squares.  Serve topped with whipped cream and garnished with dried persimmon slices (see recipes below).      Whipped Cream 1  cup heavy cream 2 tsp sugar 1 tsp vanilla Whip the cream to soft peaks (When you stick a spoon into the cream and lift it out, a point will form then droop down after a second or two).  Add sugar and vanilla and whip to firm peaks (The point formed in the cream will stand straight up and not fall over).    Dried Persimmon Slices Technique adapted from a recipe on MarthaStewart.com   3 ripe yet firm Fuyu persimmons   Pre-heat the oven to 250ᵒF and arrange a rack in the middle position.    Using a mandolin (or a very sharp knife and a very confident hand), thinly slice the persimmons cross-wise into thin (1/16-inch thick) circles.  Arrange in a single layer over a wire cooling rack placed over a baking pan.       Bake until dry and curled at the edges, about 1 to 1 1/2 hours.  Be sure not to bake for too long, or they’ll turn from a vibrant orange to a dull orange-brown.  Cool completely to room temperature then store at room temperature in an air-tight container.