Exceeding our Expectations

This week I finally got the chance to prepare a few recipes I’d been wanting to try for a while, namely a butterscotch chiffon pie, and a pepper-eggplant confit.  I’ll tell you up front, they both turned out fabulously, meeting and exceeding my optimistic expectations.  But what’s even better, this week also gave us the chance to finally have over a couple we’d been wanting to get together with for a while now too, Ben’s co-worker Jennifer and her boyfriend Mike.  Once again, our patience was rewarded and out expectations of a good time were far exceeded.  The four of us, along with my dad who at the last minute ended up staying in town for an extra night, had a sensational time, and enjoyed a pretty amazing meal.

Crostini with Goat Cheese and Roasted Red Pepper-Eggplant Confit  Fresh Figs & Grapes        Pan-Roasted Lamb Chops Couscous with Toasted Pine Nuts & Dried Fruits Gingered Beets Butternut Squash Puree   Butterscotch Chiffon Pie with Gingersnap Crust & Whipped Cream

I’d been eyeing this recipe for the pepper-eggplant confit even since buying the book it resides in.  This totally awesome cookbook, a collection of all-time best recipes from Gourmet Magazine, is one of my current favorites.  I found it this summer in a dusty used book shop in Madison, Wisconsin, and instantly fell in love.  Along with this vegetable confit and the butterscotch chiffon pie too, I’ve tried at least a dozen other recipes from within its pages.  Each one has been a total, absolute hit.  I got it for a complete steal, but even if I didn’t, this wonderful cookbook would have been one of my best buys of the year. 

Anyways, back to this confit, this abundant blend of tenderly roasted vegetables – sweet red peppers, full and mellow garlic, velvety eggplant and deeply flavored roasted tomatoes – slightly spicy with a touch of red pepper flakes, and richly infused with lush, fruity extra-virgin olive oil.  It’s at once humble and extravagant, simple yet undoubtedly splendid.  And it’s utterly delicious.  Served atop a crispy, oblong round of French bread crostini with a dollop of creamy whipped goat cheese, and it was even that much better! 

This night was supposed to be one of our last grilling nights of the year.  But at the last minute, we realized our store of charcoal had dwindled to just a few measly bricks.  And so, rather than grilling these lamb chops, I ended up pan-roasting them.  No regrets though.  No regrets at all.  A hot cast iron pan, a swig of olive oil, a sprinkle of salt and a grind of pepper – that’s all that was really needed for these gorgeous chops.  Juicy medium-rare and full of flavor, this lamb was so great, we never missed the grill.  

This couscous side dish hit the mark too.   A fluffy bowlful of tender, pale yellow particles interwoven with bright yellow dices of sweet bell pepper, golden brown dots of toasted pine nuts, chewy slices of bright amber apricot, shiny golden raisins and inky black specks of dried currents, all lightly cloaked in a bright vinaigrette of lemon and garlic with a touch of mustard and a smoky hint of cumin.  Bright yet warm, with hits of sweetness and full of savory goodness, each flavorful bite of this lovely couscous dish was fully delicious and entirely satisfying.  

A perfect partner to the couscous were these gingered beets.  Tender slices of freshly cooked, redder than red beets, tossed in a garlicky, gingery vinaigrette.  Tart lime juice tames the sugary beets, while a little heat comes from a sprinkling of diced jalapeños, and handfuls of fresh mint and cilantro add a wonderful brightness.  The deep red slices of this earthy, sweet root vegetable soak up this varied mix of seasonings, so that each bite contains an exciting burst of bright, huge flavor.  Beets have never been less boring!

The deep orange, ultra-velvety puree of butternut squash was concocted from nothing more than a few simple ingredients – only a small pat of butter, a touch of dark brown sugar, a dash of salt and pepper, and the slow-roasted gourd itself.  With a recipe like this, so simple and pure, it’s all about the star ingredient.  In this case, a truly gorgeous butternut squash, large and smooth, the color or pale cream, with a straight, thick neck, swollen seedy base and firm, dense flesh of  vivid orange.  I was lucky enough to be home in Toledo when my Dad received a assortment of winter squashes from one of his business clients. Rupp Seeds is a Toledo-area family company that specializes in developing unique varieties of fruits and vegetables for chefs’ kitchens.  Every once in a while, my parents get surprise deliveries of freshly harvested produce straight from their farms, all of it of the most amazing flavor and texture imaginable.  Like any Rupp vegetable I’ve ever sampled, this squash is sensational – sweet and buttery, immensely deep in flavor, utterly delicious.  For a recipe that demands the best of ingredients, I couldn’t have asked for anything more. 

And now we move from butternut to butterscotch.  Butterscotch chiffon pie that is.  A butterscotch chiffon pie with a deep brown gingersnap crust.  A crust that’s a little bit sweet and a littler bit spicy with the heat of ginger, and its texture  just the perfect blend of chewy and crispy.  Within this tender crumb crust is folded a silky whipped filling of  glowing golden butterscotch, so hugely buttery and intensely rich, it’s the epitome of edible decadence.  On top, a cool dollop of vanilla-spiked whipped cream.  A perfect finish for a perfect finish. 

 

Roasted Red Pepper & Eggplant Confit Adapted from The Best of Gourmet: 65 Years 65 Favorite Recipes Makes about 3 cups      2 large red bell peppers 1 large eggplant (about 1 1/2 pounds), sliced into 1/2-inch cubes 4 large garlic cloves, peeled and smashed 1 28-oz can whole peeled tomatoes in juice, drained and coarsely chopped 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil 1 tsp kosher salt 1/2 tsp dried red pepper flakes   First, roast the peppers: Preheat the oven to 500°F.  Place the peppers on a parchment-lined baking sheet and roast, turning every 5-7 minutes, until the skin is loose and blistery.  Remove from the oven and place the peppers in a container. Cover with a lid or with plastic wrap. Allow them to set for about 15 minutes.  Remove the peppers from the container.  Slice each pepper in half, length-wise, and then into quarters, lengthwise again.  Remove the stems, seeds, and any tough, pithy membranes inside.  Using a knife, scrape off the charred skin from the outside of the peppers.  Slice the peppers into 1/2-inch pieces.   Set the oven to 400°F.   In a large roasting pan, toss together the sliced peppers with the sliced eggplant, garlic cloves, chopped tomatoes, olive oil, salt and pepper flakes.  Spread the mixture evenly over the bottom of the pan.  Roast, stirring ever 15 minutes, until the vegetables are very tender, about 1 hour.  Cool to room temperature before serving.  Serve alongside creamy goat cheese and toasted French Bread crostini.   The confit can be made up to 1 week ahead a kept refrigerated in an air-tight container.  Bring to room temperature and give it a good stir before serving.

 

Pan-Roasted Lamb Chops Serves 6     12 lamb chops 2 Tbl vegetable or canola oil kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste   Allow the lamb chops to sit at room temperature for about a half hour before you cook them – it’s always best not to work with super cold meat. Heat a 12-inch cast-iron skillet for 10 minutes over medium-high heat. After 10 minutes, thoroughly dry the lamb chops by patting with paper towels, then season them liberally on both sides with salt and pepper. (Wait until the last minute to season, because in order to get a good sear, you’ll want the meat as dry as possible, and salt will cause juices to come to the surface of the steaks.) Add oil to the pan and swirl to coat the bottom. Add the chops to the pan, cover with a splatter screen. You’ll definitely want to use a splatter screen! And while you’re at it, turn on the fan over the stove, and maybe even open all your windows :). Cook the chops for about 3-4 minutes, then flip them over and cook for about about 2-3 more minutes for rare (120°F ), 4-6 minutes for medium  (130°F ), and 8-10 minutes for well-done (150°F).  Before serving, allow the lamb chops to rest on a platter, covered with foil, for about 10 minutes.

 

 

Couscous with Toasted Pine Nuts & Dried Fruits Serves 6      1 small garlic clove, peeled & finely minced zest & juice of 1 lemon 1 shallot, peeled and finely diced large pinch cumin 1 tsp Dijon mustard 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil 2 cups water 1 Tbl butter 1 cup couscous 1/4 cup dried apricots (about 8), finely diced 2 Tbl dried currants 1/4 cup golden raisins 1/4 cup pine nuts, toasted 1 yellow bell pepper, seeded, cored and finely diced kosher salt & finely ground black pepper, to taste   First, make a vinaigrette:  In a medium-sized mixing bowl, whisk together the minced garlic, lemon zest, lemon juice, diced shallot, cumin and mustard.  Slowly add the olive oil, pouring in a thin stream and whisking as you pour.  Taste and season as needed with salt and pepper. Reserve.   Next, cook the couscous:  Combine the water and a large pinch of salt in a small saucepot and bring to a boil.  In a medium-sized saucepot, melt the butter over medium heat.  Add the couscous and cook for 1-2 minutes, stirring constantly.  Remove from the heat, then pour in the boiling water.  Stir to evenly distribute the couscous, then cover and let sit for 10 minutes to steam.  Remove the lid and fluff the couscous with a fork.    Finally, mix it all together:  In a large mixing bowl, combine the cooked couscous with the diced apricots, currants, raisins, toasted pine nuts and diced pepper.  Toss gently to combine.  Give the vinaigrette a final whisk, then drizzle over the couscous.  Toss again to evenly combine.  Serve warm or at room temperature.

 

 

Gingered Beets Adapted from Sunday Suppers at Lucques by Suzanne Goin Serves  6   about 12-16 small beets 1 small shallot, peeled and finely diced 1/2 small jalapeño pepper, cored, seeded and finely diced 1 small clove garlic, peeled and finely minced 2 tsp grated fresh ginger 1/4 cup chopped fresh mint 1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro 1 Tbl lime juice 6 Tbl extra-virgin olive oil kosher salt & finely ground black pepper, to taste   To prepare the beets: Slice and the stems and roots from of the beets and discard.  Add the beets to a large saucepot and cover with water.  Bring to a boil over high heat.  Reduce the heat to medium and simmer until the beets are tender, about 30-45 minutes.  The beets are done when you can easily slide a paring knife through the center, without hardly having to push at all.  Drain the beets from the water, and allow to cool at room temperature for about 5-10 minutes.  Peel the beets, discarding the skin. You should be able to easily peel the skins off the beets with your fingers.  If not, use a paring knife.  Slice each beet into 6-8 wedges.  Reserve.   To make the vinaigrette: In a medium-sized mixing bowl, whisk together the shallot, jalapeño, garlic, ginger, mint, cilantro and lime juice.  Season with a good pinch of salt and pepper.  Slowly add the olive oil, pouring in a thin stream and whisking as you pour.  Taste and season as needed with salt and pepper. Reserve.   To finish:  In a mixing bowl, toss to combine the sliced beets with the vinaigrette.  Serve warm or at room temperature.  This dish can be kept refrigerated in an air-tight container for about 12 hours, before the herbs begin to discolor.

 

 

Butternut Squash Puree Serves  4     1 large butternut squash (about 2 pounds) about 1 Tbl extra-virgin olive oil 2 Tbl butter (1/4 stick), melted 2 tsp dark brown sugar kosher salt & freshly ground black pepper, to taste   Preheat the oven to 350°F.   Cut the butternut squash in half lengthwise, scoop out the seeds, drizzle the insides with olive oil and sprinkle with a good pinch of salt and a few grinds of pepper. Place cut side-down on a parchment-lined baking sheet.  Cover tightly with foil, and roast until completely tender, about an hour to an hour and a half, depending on the size of your squash. Remove from the oven, and when cool enough to handle, scoop out the tender flesh and discard the skins.     Place the butternut flesh in the bowl of an electric food processor, and process until very smooth.  Add the melted butter and brown sugar and pulse to combine. Taste and season as needed with salt and pepper, then pulse again to combine.  Serve hot.    The butternut puree can be made up to 2 day ahead, then re-warmed over medium-low heat in a covered sauce pot.  Add about 2 tablespoons water to the puree, and stir occasionally as it re-heats.

 

 

Butterscotch Chiffon Pie with Gingersnap Crust & Whipped Cream Adapted from The Best of Gourmet: 65 Years, 65 Favorite Recipes Serves  8-10     For the gingersnap crust: 10 oz gingersnap cookies, processed into fine crumbs 3 Tbl dark brown sugar 1/2 tsp kosher salt 3 Tbl butter, melted   Preheat the oven to 350°F and arrange a rack in the middle position.    In a medium-sized mixing bowl, stir to combine the cookie crumbs, sugar and salt.  Add the melted butter and stir to combine.  Evenly press the crumb mixture into the bottom and sides of a 9-inch glass pie plate, forming a neat border around the edge.  Bake until the crust is set and golden, about 15 minutes.  Set aside on a wire rack to completely cool.      For the butterscotch filling: 3 Tbl light corn syrup 3/4 cup plus 1 Tbl granulated sugar, divided 2 Tbl plus 2 Tbl water, divided 1/2 stick unsalted butter 1 tsp cider vinegar 2 pinches salt, divided 1/3 cup plus 1 cup heavy cream, divided, chilled 1 1/2 tsp vanilla 2 tsp unflavored gelatin (from 1 envelope) 3 large egg whites   Combine the corn syrup, 3/4 cup sugar and 2 Tbl water in a medium-sized (about 2 quart) saucepot.  Bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring until the sugar is dissolved.  Boil the mixture, swirling the pan occasionally but not stirring, until it turn deep golden caramel, about 7-9 minutes.    Remove the saucepot from the heat.  Add the butter, vinegar and a pinch of salt, and swirl the pan until the butter is melted.  The sauce will bubble violently.  Add 1/3 cup cream and the vanilla.  The sauce will again bubble violently.  Stir for 1 minute, until the bubbling subsides.  Cool the sauce until it is just warm.   While the sauce cools, sprinkle the gelatin evenly over the remaining 2 Tbl water in a small sauce pan.  Let it set for 1 minute to soften, then heat it over low heat to dissolve the gelatin.  Stir the gelatin mixture into the butterscotch sauce, then cool to room temp.   Using an electric stand mixture fitted with a whisk, beat the egg whites with a pinch of salt on high speed until they hold soft peaks (When you stick a spoon into the whites and lift it out, a point will form then droop down after a second or two).  Add the remaining 1 Tbl sugar and continue to whip until the whites just hold stiff peaks (The point formed in the whites will stand straight up and not fall over).  Fold in the butterscotch sauce, gently but thoroughly.  Transfer this mixture to large mixing bowl, then clean the stand mixer’s bowl and whisk.   Beat the remaining 1 cup cream until it just holds stiff peaks.  Fold the cream into the butterscotch mixture, again gently but thoroughly.    Gently pour the butterscotch mixture into the cooled gingersnap crust.  Chill, uncovered, until thoroughly set, about 2 hours.    Slice the pie into 8-10 wedges.  Serve the slices cold with a dollop of whipped cream.  For the whipped cream: 1 cup heavy whipping cream 1 Tbl sugar 1 tsp vanilla Whip the cream to soft peaks (When you stick a spoon into the cream and lift it out, a point will form then droop down after a second or two).  Add sugar and vanilla and whip to firm peaks (The point formed in the cream will stand straight up and not fall over).

 

A Dinner with Dad

We had another houseguest again this week – my dad, who was here for a business conference.  All too excited to have the chance to cook for him, I made one of his favorites - beef short ribs.  And I whipped up some other great stuff too.  Check it out…

Fall Salad of Pears, Toasted Hazelnuts & Goat Cheese    Merlot-Braised Beef Short Ribs    Rosemary Mashed Potatoes Roasted Carrots & Parsnips    Apple Crisp with Vanilla Ice Cream

This delicious salad was just bursting with all sorts of goodness – sweet slivers of sliced shallots, toasted hazelnuts, golden raisins (I know, I’ve been using these like crazy lately, just can’t quite resist ‘em), billowy cloud-like clumps of goat cheese, thin slices of crisp pears. 

Whenever I think up new salads, I follow one rule of thumb – pick a fruit, pick a nut and pick a cheese.  Toss these together with some fresh greens and a quick vinaigrette, and you’ve got yourself once heck of a salad.  In mathematical terms, S = F + N + C + G + V.   S is for salad of course, and then sub in any kind of fruit for F, any kind of nut for N, and well you get the idea,  any kind of cheese, greens and vinaigrette too.  Have fun mixing and matching the flavors. There are infinite tasty combinations.  And it works every time, certainly did this night. Of 
course, I improvised a little bit too, adding a second fruit and the shallots.  But that’s the fun of it.  It’s no set-in-stone rule, just a springboard for a great, tasty salad.  Hope you try it out!

Wow oh wow, short ribs.  This has got to be the most incredible cut of meat ever.  Way different from the long slabs of grilled BBQ pork ribs, these hulking, meaty ribs of beef are so enormous, just one is enough for a huge and hearty meal.  A little short rib 101:  like any other cut of meat with a lot of connective tissue, short ribs are best cooked by braising, that is, cooked for a long time over low heat, and in a liquid.  Kind of like a stew, except we’re hardly talking about little cubes of meat.  We talking about these beefy giants of deliciousness.  Anyways, braising these guys for a loooong time at the barest of simmers breaks down all that connective tissue, melting it into a smooth gelatin, and turning the meat incredibly tender. 

There are countless possible spins on braised short ribs, and I’m sure I’ll sneak in at least one or two other twists before the end of the year, but tonight I stuck with a pretty traditional recipe.  Deeply browned onions and carrots and garlic, caramelized tomato paste, a fresh sprig of rosemary, a single bay leaf, a couple cups of beef stock and a bottle of red wine.  It’s as classic as it gets.  And it hardly gets any better than that.  The rich, dark sauce was intensely flavorful, so huge in taste and full of complexity, yet so purely true to the essence of the beef.  Taking nothing away from the meat itself, this incredible sauce simply enhanced it. 

I stayed simple with the sides too.  Whipped russet potatoes, so velvety smooth and silkily creamy, with just the barest hint of rosemary.  Infused into the cream, the rosemary flavor was anything but obvious.  A bit mysterious even, hiding just at the edge of perceptible taste.  It had Ben and Dad asking “what is that extra something?”  And that’s just the effect I was after!

The idea for these roasted carrots and parsnips came straight out of the Cook’s Illustrated magazine that arrive in our mailbox that morning.  Tossed with melted butter, then roasted in the oven, these beautiful baby root vegetable turned so tender and sweet, they seems like butter themselves.  I know I’m going to be making this gorgeous side all fall and winter long.  It’s just too easy.  And way too delicious.

And for dessert, apple crisp.   To me there is nothing quite as delicious as warm apple crisp with a cold scoop of vanilla ice cream.  Nothing at all.  I do think it’s my all-time favorite dessert.  And this is my all-time favorite apple crisp recipe.  The apple filling is tart but sweet, and the crisp topping is rich and buttery, crisp and crunchy on top, but chewy and caramely at the edges.  Oh, it’s absolutely divine, every single bite.  And I’m not the only one who thought so.  As I handed out pretty generously-sized servings of ice cream-topped crisp, Dad said I gave him too big a portion.  But he dug in anyways, and then he helped himself to not one but two more bowlfuls!  I think that says it all.  And I think you should try a bowlful or two (or three) yourself, and right away!  Don’t forget the vanilla ice cream!

Fall Salad of Pears, Toasted Hazelnuts & Goat Cheese Serves  4      For the vinaigrette: 1 tsp Dijon mustard 2 Tbl apple cider vinegar 1/2 tsp thyme leaves, chopped 1/2 clove garlic, finely minced 1 large pinch ground cinnamon 1 tsp dark brown sugar 2 Tbl extra-virgin olive oil 2 Tbl vegetable oil kosher salt & freshly ground black pepper, to taste   For the rest of the salad: mixed greens (such as baby spinach, butter lettuce or radicchio), torn into     bite-sized pieces, enough for four people 1 large shallot, peeled and thinly sliced about 1/3 cup golden raisins 4 oz goat cheese, crumbled about 1/2 cup hazelnuts, toasted 2 Bartlett pears, cored and thinly sliced   Make the vinaigrette: In a medium-sized mixing bowl, combine the mustard, vinegar, thyme, garlic, cinnamon, brown sugar, a good pinch of salt and a few grinds of pepper.  Whisk together the ingredients, and slowly pour in the olive oil, then the vegetable oil, both in a thin stream, whisking as you pour.  The dressing can be made ahead and stored about five days, refrigerated in an airtight container.   Toast the hazelnuts: Spread the raw hazelnuts on a parchment-lined sheet tray and roast in a 350°F oven until toasted and aromatic, about fifteen minutes or so, rotating the pan about half-way through.  Remove from the oven and cool to room temperature.  Removing the skins can be a real hassle, so just try your best – I like a bit of skin left on anyways.  Here’s a handy trick through.  Take a handful of cool, toasted hazelnuts and, holding them over the colander bowl of a salad spinner, rub them between your hands to remove as much of the skin as possible.  Place in the colander, then repeat with the rest of the nuts, Give the salad spinner a few spins and the papery skins will separate out from the nuts.  Discard the skins. Assemble the salad: Combine the greens, and most of the sliced shallots, raisins, goat cheese, hazelnuts and sliced pears in a large bowl. (I say most because you’ll want to keep a little bit left over to top the salads. It’s always nice to have some of the pretty stuff right on top.) Drizzle a bit of the vinaigrette on top, enough to evenly but thinly coat the greens. (You definitely won’t not need to use it all – Save the rest for another salad.)  Season with a good pinch of salt and a few good grinds of pepper. Toss to coat.  Serve immediately.

 

 

Merlot-Braised Beef Short Ribs Serves 4      1 Tbl extra-virgin olive oil 4 large beef short ribs (about 2 pounds total) 2 Tbl plus 1 Tbl butter, divided 1 large yellow onion, peeled and roughly chopped 1 large carrot, peeled and roughly chopped 2 cloves garlic, peeled and roughly chopped 1 tsp tomato paste 1 sprig fresh rosemary 1 bay leaf 1 bottle Merlot 2 cups beef broth kosher salt & freshly ground black pepper, to taste   Heat a large, wide-bottomed pot over high heat for 2 minutes.  Add the olive oil, reduce the heat to medium-high, and heat for 1 minute longer.  Meanwhile, pat the short ribs dry with paper towels.  Season liberally with salt and pepper.  Add the short ribs to the pot in a single layer and sauté, turning as needed, until browned on all sides, about 10 minutes.  Transfer the ribs to a plate and reserve.  Wipe out the inside of the pot with paper towels, then return to medium-high heat.    Melt 2 Tbl butter in the pot, then add the chopped onions.  Season with a good sprinkling of salt and pepper, then sauté over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until well browned, about 6-8 minutes.  Add the chopped carrot and continue to sauté, stirring occasionally, until well browned also, about 6 minutes.  Add the garlic and sauté, stirring frequently, 1 minute longer.  Add the tomato paste sauté for 2 more minutes, stirring frequently.  Add the rosemary sprig, bay leaf and wine.  Bring to a boil, and scrape up any browned bits on the bottom of the pan.  Add the beef broth, and return the short ribs and any of their accumulated juices to the pot, arranging them in a single layer.  Bring to a simmer, then cover.  Braise at the barest of simmers until the ribs are very tender and the meat has pulled away from the bone, about 2 1/2 to 3 hours.   Transfer the ribs with tongs to a clean plate. Strain the braising liquid through a fine mesh sieve, and discard the solids.  Spoon as much fat as possible from the top of the liquid.  Discard the fat.  Transfer the braising liquid to a smaller pot and place, uncovered, over medium-high heat.  Keep at a strong simmer until the sauce is reduced to about 2 cups and is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon, about 15 minutes (but that is just a rough estimate – this time can vary greatly).  Add the remaining tablespoon of butter and stir until melted.  Taste the sauce and season as needed with salt and pepper.    When ready to serve, transfer the short ribs to the pot, and spoon the sauce over the ribs.  Cover and re-heat over medium-low, stirring occasionally, until hot.  Serve hot.   The short ribs and sauce can be made up to 2 days ahead and kept refrigerated in an air-tight container.  Reheat over low heat in a covered pot before serving.

 

 

Rosemary Mashed Potatoes Serves  4     2 pounds russet or Yukon Gold potatoes 3/4 cup heavy cream 1 tsp rosemary, very finely chopped 3/4 stick (6Tbl) butter, cut into small pieces kosher salt & freshly ground black pepper, to taste   Rinse the potatoes in cool water.  Peel the potatoes, then cut into medium-sized chunks.  Add to a pot of boiling salted water and cook until tender.    Meanwhile, combine the cream and rosemary in a small pot.  Bring to a simmer, then remove from the heat.  Set aside, allowing the rosemary to steep in the cream.    When the potatoes are tender, drain them in a colander, then press the cooked potatoes through a potato ricer set over a large mixing bowl.  Fold the butter into the riced potatoes.  Strain the cream mixture through a fine mesh sieve, and discard the rosemary.  Add the cream to the riced potatoes.  Season with a good pinch of salt and pepper.  Mix gently to combine.  Serve hot.

 

 

Roasted Carrots & Parsnips Adapted from Cooks Illustrated Magazine, November & December 2010 Issue Serves  4     1 # carrots, preferably baby carrots 1/2 # parsnips, preferably baby parsnips 2 Tbl butter, melted kosher salt & freshly ground black pepper, to taste   Pre-heat the oven to 425°F and arrange a rack in the middle position.   Peel the carrots and parsnips.  If using larger vegetables, slice them in half cross-wise, then slice length-wise as needed to create evenly-sized pieces.    In a large mixing bowl, combine the carrots and parsnips with the melted butter. Season generously with salt and pepper, then toss to combine.  Transfer the carrots to a foil-lined baking pan, spreading them in an even single layer.  Cover the pan tightly with foil.   Roast for 15 minutes, then remove the foil.  Stir the carrots & parsnips in the pan, then return to the oven.  Roast uncovered for 10 minutes longer, then stir the carrots and parsnips again.  Roast again for 10 minutes longer, or for as long as needed until the vegetables are well browned and tender, stirring every 10 minutes.  Serve hot.

 

 

Apple Crisp Serves  8      For the topping: 1 1/4 cup old-fashioned oats * 1 cup light brown sugar 3/4 cup flour 1/2 tsp cinnamon 1/2 tsp kosher salt 1 1/2 sticks unsalted butter, cold and cut into 1/2-inch cubes    Combine the oats, brown sugar, flour, cinnamon and salt in the bowl of an electric mixer.  Using the paddle attachment, mix on low speed to just combine the ingredients.  Add the butter and mix on medium speed until the mixture begins to resemble coarse wet crumbs.  (The mixture should hold together loosely if you squeeze it in your hand, but should still easily crumble apart.  If you mix it for too long, the ingredients will become too thoroughly incorporated, and the mixture will turn dense like cookie dough, so don’t get carried away.)  Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until needed.  This topping can be stored for 2 days. For the filling: 4 large Granny Smith Apples, peeled, cored and thinly sliced 4 large Fuji Apples, peeled, cored and thinly sliced 1 Tbl lemon juice 1/4 cup granulated sugar large pinch cinnamon Preheat the oven to 375°F.  Butter a 9x13 inch glass baking dish. In a large mixing bowl, stir to combine the sliced apples with the lemon juice.  Add the sugar and cinnamon and stir to evenly coat.  Transfer the fruit to the prepared baking dish.  Sprinkle the topping over the filling.  There’s a trick to doing this:  Grab a handful of the topping and gently squeeze to make it somewhat stick together, then crumble this mass into coarse pieces, spreading the crumbs evenly over the filling.  Bake until the fruit is tender and the crisp topping is golden brown and crisp, about 45 minutes to an hour.  Cool about 20 minutes, then serve topped with a scoop of vanilla ice cream. * By ‘old fashioned oats’ I mean oats that aren’t instant oats.  I also don’t mean stone-cut oats.  Definitely not those.  Old fashion oats will look a lot like the flat, flaky instant oats, but are a little more substantial.  I like the brand Bob’s Red Mill, which is pretty easy to find in most good grocery stores.  But I don’t think the regular old Quaker Oats brand could be too bad either.

A Family Reunion

Last weekend we threw a mini family reunion of sorts, and had over for dinner the Chicago chapter of the Toledo-based Anderson clan.  Our guests were my dad’s cousin Francie (my first-cousin-once-removed) and her husband Mike (my first-cousin-once-removed-in-law) who live up in Evanston, and their niece Maggie (my second cousin), who’s a sophomore at DePaul University.  It had been a long, long time since I’d seen Francie, at least fifteen years.  And even though I was still just a kid the last time I saw her, she was still exactly how I remember her, so warm and  fun and just plain neat.  We’d never met Mike, but within minutes we knew he was as fun and cool as his wife.  As for Maggie, well, aside from a quick meet-up for lunch a few months ago, I hadn’t seen her in ages either, maybe not since she was say, eight or nine.  And now she’s suddenly all grown up, and amazingly neat herself.  And all I can say is, it’s so great having such sweet and smart and all around lovely cousins just neighborhoods away.  And man oh man, it was so good sharing the night with all three of them.  With such special family-filled evenings like this, Chicago is slowly but surely, really starting to feel like home. 

Sliced Pears & Grapes with Artisanal Cheeses & Crostini      Prosciutto-Wrapped Pork Tenderloin Caramelized Onion & Fennel Risotto Bitter Greens Salad Roasted Figs    Gingerbread Cake with Golden Raisins & Crystallized Ginger

But now, let’s get to the food.  And let’s start with the hors d’oeuvres, which I admit were a bit of a cheat.  No new recipe here, just some buttery French bread crostini, two wonderful cheeses, a sharp Gorgonzola and a sweet and mellow triple crème, some luscious slices of blushing Bartlett pears, and bicolor clusters of red and concord grapes.  Perhaps I had a bit of menu-writers block, but I just couldn’t settle on an hors d’oeuvre.  And then at the market, tempted by the gorgeous cheeses, and a little bit in love with the beautiful fall fruits, I finally made up my mind, and decided on this simple and simply delicious start for the evening. 

The prosciutto-wrapped pork tenderloin was an elegant centerpiece to our main course. Scrolling through my 38 previous dinner party posts, I’m shocked that I haven’t yet served pork tenderloin.  Hugely flavorful and amazingly tender, this sensational cut of meat is an all-around knock-out choice for dinner, any night of the week.  Whether roasted or grilled, marinated or rubbed with spices and herbs, pork tenderloin has all the potential to be truly sensational.  Tonight I added a fancy twist, and wrapped the pork in paper-thin slices of salty, pink prosciutto.  A quick roast in a hot oven produced succulent slices of juicy pork enclosed in rosy rings of a crackly prosciutto crust.  It looked really lovely, and tasted even better.

Risotto, no matter what kind really, is always a dish that’s sure to delight just about anyone.  And tonight was no different – Each of us fell head over heals for this delicious rendition of the creamy classic.  Pretty incredible to begin with, these million tender specks of short-grained rice bathing in a creamy wave of buttery sauce, rich with golden chicken stock, earthy thyme and salty Parmesan, made bright with a pleasant splash of dry white wine. And then, brought completely over the top, as a giant heap of slowly caramelized onion and fennel is folded in, weaving through in golden goodness.  Warm and sweet and mellow, these caramel hued and flavored vegetables were a divine addition to this heavenly pot of velvety, luxurious rice. 

 

Golden brown and a bit caramelized themselves, the oven-roasted figs leant a fruity touch of sweetness to the richness of the risotto.  With nothing more than a sprinkling of salt and pepper, a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil and a quick roast in a hot oven, the bright, clean freshness of these immensely beautiful and all-too-charming figs still lingered.  The simple roasting just served to enhance the tenderness, boost the inherent sweetness and add an extra dimension of flavor to these wonderful autumnal fruits.  

And then of course, my favorite staple, a simple salad of bitter greens.  I hate to keep relying on this somewhat humdrum side, but it always seems to hit that needed note.  A touch of sharp bitterness, a bright bit of cool freshness, a subtle crispness.  More often than not, and especially alongside warm, rich dishes such as the one tonight, it tends to perfectly fit the bill, and flawlessly finish a plate. 

Finally, dessert.  And finally, old-fashioned gingerbread cake.  Finally, because Ben and I have been waiting all summer for it.  No matter how much we craved it, I just couldn’t bring myself to make this undeniably cold weather dessert until we were at least a few good weeks into fall.  It just wouldn’t have been decent.  But now that the air is undoubtedly cool and the leaves on the trees are anything but green, I took the very first chance I got to make this warm and cozy dessert.   Moist and buttery, this luscious cake is just absolutely full of intense flavor from the rich, dark molasses, the warm spices of cinnamon and cloves, the citrusy shreds of orange zest, the sweet and plump golden raisins, and the spicy specks of sugared ginger.  And as a perfect finish to this fall dessert, the pure white glaze of orange-flavored sugar tops the deep brown brown cake, coating the warm, spicy confection with a cool and pleasing sweetness.  And now, I’m glad for our patience, because this wonderful dessert was well worth the long wait.

 

French Bread Crostini   This recipe is a repeat from a previous dinner party.  (It’s that good!)  Check it out here.

 

 

Prosciutto-Wrapped Pork Tenderloin Serves  6-8     2 medium-sized pork tenderloins 10 slices prosciutto, thinly sliced kosher salt & freshly-ground black pepper, to taste about 1 Tbl extra-virgin olive oil   Preheat the oven to 425°F and arrange an oven rack in the middle position.    Arrange five slices of prosciutto, with their long sides slightly overlapping, and the short sides facing you, over a cutting board.  Pat dry one of the tenderloins, then season generously with salt and pepper.  Lay the tenderloin across the bottom of one side of the the prosciutto slices. The tenderloin should span across each slice of prosciutto, not just sit on top of one slice.  (Sorry, but explaining this is trickier than I expected.  Why didn’t I take a picture?!)  Wrap the prosciutto entirely around the tenderloin.  Follow the same steps for the other tenderloin.  Brush with olive oil.   Arrange the prosciutto-wrapped tenderloins at least 2-inches apart on a wire rack placed over a baking sheet.  Roast in the oven until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the center of the meat registers 150°F, about 15-20 minutes. Allow to rest about 10 minutes, then sliced into 1/2-inch thick slices and serve.

 

 

Caramelized Onion & Fennel Risotto Serves  8      1 stick butter, divided 4 large yellow onions, peeled and thinly sliced 2 large heads fennel, thinly sliced 2 garlic cloves, peeled and minced 1 tsp fresh thyme leaves, chopped 2 cups short grained white rice (such as Arborio or Carnaroli) 2 quarts chicken stock (homemade is best, but I do really like this store-bought broth) 1/2 cup dry white wine 1/2 cup grated Parmesan   First, caramelize the onions & fennel:  In a very large sauté pan (or even a large pot), melt 4 Tbl butter over medium heat.  Add the sliced onions and fennel.  (This will look like huge amount, but as the vegetables cook, they will shrink enormously!)  Season with salt and pepper and stir to combine.  Reduce the heat to medium-low (or even low, depending on the strength of your burner) and cook, stirring frequently for the first 15 minutes, and then only occasionally, about every 15-20 minutes, until the vegetables are a lovely golden color, about 1 1/2 to 2 hours.  Once finished, transfer the caramelized vegetables to a small bowl and reserve until needed.  (Patience is key here.  And while this does take a lot of time, it happily does not require a lot of work or attention.  Remember, slow and low will give you the best results.  You don’t want to brown the vegetables right away, but let them slowly turn golden.  So adjust your stovetop temperature accordingly.)   Next, heat up the chicken stock: On a back burner, bring the stock to a boil over high heat, then immediately lower the heat to low, just in order to keep it warm.   Now, let’s get to the risotto: Melt 2 Tbl of the remaining butter in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add the garlic and thyme and cook, stirring constantly, for about 1 minute.  Add the rice and cook, still stirring constantly, for 2 more minutes.  Stir in about 1-2 cups of stock, so that the rice is just covered. Simmer slowly, stirring occasionally, until the stock is nearly all absorbed. Continue adding more stock, a cup or two at a time, until the rice is creamy and slightly firm, but no longer hard in the center. This usually takes about 20 minutes, and you may not need to use all the stock. Add the wine, then simmer a minute or so more until the wine is absorbed.  Add the caramelized onions and fennel, and stir to fold in completely.  Cook for about two more minutes to heat through, stirring occasionally.  Stir in the grated parmesan and the remaining 2 Tbl butter.  Taste and season as needed with salt and pepper. Serve immediately.

 

 

Bitter Greens Salad   This recipe is a repeat from a previous dinner party.  (It’s that good!)  Check it out here.

 

 

Roasted Figs Serves 6-8      12 fresh figs about 1 Tbl extra-virgin olive oil kosher salt & freshly ground black pepper, to taste   Pre-heat the oven to 425°F.    Trim the stems from the figs.  Slice the figs in half length-wise.  In a small mixing bowl, drizzle the olive oil over the sliced figs then season lightly with salt and pepper.  Toss gently to coat.  Arrange the figs, sliced sides up, on a parchment-lined baking sheet.   Roast until the figs are light golden brown and tender, about 12-15 minutes.  Cool slightly, and serve warm.

 

 

Gingerbread Cake with Golden Raisins & Crystallized Ginger Adapted from Barefoot Contessa Back to Basics by Ina Garten Serves  9       1/4 cup water 1/2 cup golden raisins 1 stick butter, plus more for greasing the cake pan 1 cup molasses 1 cup sour cream 1 1/2 tsp grated orange zest (from about 2 small oranges) 2 1/3 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting the cake pan 3/4 tsp baking soda 1 1/2 tsp ground ginger 1 tsp ground cinnamon 1/4 tsp ground cloves 1/2 tsp kosher salt 1/3 cup minced crystallized ginger 1 cup powdered sugar 2 Tbl plus 1 tsp freshly squeezed orange juice   Pre-heat the oven to 350°F and arrange a rack in the middle position.  Generously butter an 8x8-inch square cake pan.  Line the pan with parchment paper, then grease again with butter and dust with flour.  Set aside.   Combine the water and raisins in a small saucepot.  Cover with a lid, and heat over medium-high until the water boils.  Turn off the heat and set aside.   In a medium-sized mixing bowl, whisk to combine the flour, baking soda, ginger, cinnamon, cloves and salt.    In a second small saucepot, combine the butter and the molasses.  Bring to boil over medium heat, then immediately remove from the heat.  Pour the mixture into the bowl of an electric stand mixer.  Cool for 5 minutes, then add the sour cream and orange zest.  Using the paddle attachment, mix on low until thoroughly combined.  With the mixer on low speed, slowly add the flour mixture to the molasses mixture.  Mix only until smooth.    Drain the raisins, then add the raisins and the crystallized ginger to the batter.  Mix with a rubber spatula to combine.  Pour the batter into the prepared cake pan.  Bake until a tester inserted into the center of the cake comes out lean, about 35 minutes.  Cool completely on a wire rack.   When the cake is cooled, lift it from the pan and place again on the wire rack.  Set the rack over a wide sheet of paper or foil (to catch the dripping glaze).  Wisk together the powdered sugar and orange juice.  Pour it over the gingerbread, letting it drip down the sides.  Allow the glaze to set completely, then slice the cake into 9 squares.

An Invitation

Dear Chicago-area readers, friends and friends-of-friends,

You are all cordially invited to our first official

Scrumptious Company Home-Restaurant Event!

The time: Saturday November sixth, seven o’clock PM
The place: our Wicker Park apartment
The menu: An Early Thanksgiving Feast *
Ticket price: $40

To RSVP, please email me at KateFrench23@gmail.com
Our seating is limited to 10, so be quick!  Because we’d love to have you! 

* HORS D’OEUVRES: Fall Fruits, Artisanal Cheeses, French Bread Crostini, Spiced Nuts
MAIN COURSE: Herb-Roasted Turkey with Gravy, Creamy Whipped Potatoes, Classic Fresh Herb Stuffing,
Cranberry Sauce with Tart Dried Cherries, Green Beans with Almonds & Shallots,
Butternut Squash Soufflés, Caramelized Tomato Pudding, French Bread Rolls
DESSERT: Pumpkin Cheesecake, Dark Chocolate Tart with Candied Orange & Toasted Almonds, Coffee & Teas
WINE INCLUDED

 

 
10-28-10: I’m happy to announce that all the seats are now filled
for our upcoming Early Thanksgiving Feast! 

For those of you who couldn’t make it this time,
please stay tuned for our next
Scrumptious Company Home-Restaurant Event,
coming in the 2011 New Year.