Especially Fond

Even though I’ve loved them all so far, I’m for some reason especially fond of this week’s dinner party, a little bit partial maybe.  I can’t really put my finger on why – It’s just that this meal has felt like a special one from the very beginning.  To start with, I was in a really great mood last week when I sat down to think up what to fix for dinner.  It was one of those good, good days, and I was just loving life.  All my happy feelings must have brought out the creativity, because the ideas came so easily and just seemed so absolutely right.  I instantly fell in love with this late summer menu:

Roasted Figs Stuffed with Blue Cheese Sugar-Spiced Nuts Concord Grapes    Prosciutto-Wrapped Sea Bass Sautéed Summer Squash with Fresh Herbs Wild Rice & Green Lentils Braised Radishes    Vanilla-Poppy Seed Cake with Roasted Plums and Whipped Cream

And then things kept getting better.  The prep was a breeze, much easier than I expected, way simpler than the menu would let you believe, and loads quicker than nearly all the other dinner parties up here.  Even better, every last bite turned out absolutely delicious.  Absolutely, enormously delicious.  But best of all were out guests, Downstairs Marty and his girlfriend Nichole. Marty’s just a floor below and right underneath us, in what’s a pretty small apartment building.  But, sad to say it, aside from now and then passing him in the stairway, or hearing his muffled cheers through the floor during big games on TV, we’d hardly known Marty at all.  He always seemed like a neat guy, but it turns out he’s on the really-neat side of neat.  Nichole too is a cool, cool girl.  Downstairs Jen and Ted and little Luca came up too, just in time for dessert & wine, and before you knew it, we were in the merry midst of a spontaneous apartment bash.

And now let’s get to that enormously delicious food I was talking about.  First, the blue cheese stuffed figs, a savory treat I used to make all the time, only years and year ago, while I was cooking back in Ithaca.  I haven’t made them in ages, and I’d all but forgotten about them, until I saw these lovely figs at the fruit market.  And then it all came back to me… those fresh, lush figs, with smooth, deep purple skins and glowing pink, seedy insides.  A quick roast in the oven brushes them a hue of light golden brown, turns them succulently tender, and concentrates their juices and sugars to a caramel-like syrup.  Atop this goodness I dollop a spoonful (or if I’m feeling fancy, pipe a swirl) of intensely flavored blue cheese, whipped into a velvety mousse with nothing more than a touch of cream.  The rich pungency of the blue cheese combined with the sugary tartness of the fig just sends me to the moon. I can’t believe I’d forgotten about these for so long.

And this flash from my past reminded me of another old favorite, and from the same place too, the sugar-spiced nuts from Just a Taste.  A sensation among many a customer of this marvelous eatery, these sweet-salty-spicy nuts could always be found in a huge glass jar atop the Just a Taste bar.  With their glistening crust of sugar, salt and a myriad spices, a handful of these addictive nuts makes for a perfect sweet treat and simultaneously salty snack.  But they’re sensational too alongside fruits and cheeses and beer and wine.  They seemed like just the thing to serve with the blue cheese figs and a glass of red.  And they most definitely were. 

And while at the market, I just couldn’t resist the concord grapes, those gorgeous clusters of dusty, deep purple orbs.   Sweet, seed-studded juice capsules of the loveliest pale green, rolling within their tart, leathery skins - they’re like perfect packages of intoxicating flavor.  And so these tasty little lovelies became hors d’oeuvres too.

And now let’s move onto the main course, and all its fabulous sides.  I’m just so excited about these sides, I’m almost tempted to skip the fish and delve into descriptions of these sensational dishes. But I really should tell you at least a bit about this sea bass.  Perhaps a bit boring next to those gorgeous grains and stunning vegetables, but it deliciously deserves an equal amount of praise.  This wonderful fish really hit the mark - moist and tender and immensely tasty, with huge, tender flakes of snow-white flesh atop a crispy, silvery skin, all wrapped in a wide ribbon of pink prosciutto. Truly, it was very much a worthy hero to it’s crew of delicious sidekicks.

I’m in love right now with this simple summer squash dish: Green and gold coins of sliced zucchini and yellow squash, gently sautéed to melting tenderness in a swig of extra-virgin olive oil and a pat of butter, then doused in a shower of emerald green herbs – bright parsley, floral marjoram, sweet basil and peppery thyme.  It’s so, so simple, just a handful of fresh green confetti away from a nothing-but-typical vegetable dish.  But confetti has always seemed kind of magical to me.  Whether a shimmering cascade of colored specks of paper, twinkling through the air, or an herbal sprinkling over warm, buttery vegetables, confetti of any sort promises an enchanting effect.  It certainly works it’s magic on this dish. 

When it came to a starchy side, I couldn’t make up my mind between the nutty chew of wild rice or the warm, tender bite of French green lentils, and so I decided to mix them.  When blended together, the attributes of both seemed to compound and augment, enhancing each other and creating a texture and flavor much enticing than either rice or lentil alone could achieve.  Of course, the smoky bits of crispy pancetta, sweet specks of sautéed shallots, and bright scattering of fresh parsley didn’t hurt things a bit either. 

And lastly, a vegetable dish I particularly adore, the braised radishes.  If you’ve been a Scrumptious Company reader for a while now, you may remember this beautiful dish from a post back in February.  I know I’ve been repeating recipes a bit lately, and really, I’m trying not to do that too much.  But as soon as these radishes popped into my mind, I just couldn’t pop them back out of it.  And why would I want to?  They’re such a fabulous match for the sea bass and other sides, and they’re ridiculously, gorgeously delicious.  Ever so slowly sautéed in butter, their spicy, biting radish flavors mellow out into creamy, earthy smoothness.  And just as the flavor infuses throughout the tender spheres, the bright red color of the skins permeates through to the radishes’ centers, painting them a lovely watercolor pink.  

It’s convenient that dessert comes so naturally, right after dinner.  Because otherwise I’d have had an all too difficult time saving the best for last.  And the best is exactly what this vanilla poppy seed cake is – my favorite part of one of my favorite dinner parties.  Densely freckled with about a million minute poppy seeds, this beauty of a cake is a sight to behold.  The crust is deeply golden brown, and just on the edge of crispy, while the inside is moist and delightfully spongy, with rich vanilla flavor and countless constellations of tiny, chewy poppy seeds weaving through its tender crumb.  It was the first time I’d ever baked this cake, a recipe of Deborah Madison’s.  But for sure, it was the the first time of many.  I will make this cake for years and years.  I will make this when I’m an old lady.  And I’ll be known around my neighborhood as that little old lady who makes that fabulous poppy seed cake.  

Along with this simple yet elegant cake, a pillowy dollop of fresh whipped cream and a generous spoonful of rosemary-scented roasted plums.  We are right in the middle of plum season, and the stalls of my fruit market are piled with such a vivid array of different varieties and colors of plums – deep inky purple, pastel yellow, bright ruby red, and pale chartreuse with blushes of pink.  I couldn’t resist on my last shopping trip, and grabbed a few of each.  I sliced them into slender wedges, tossed them with a few rosemary springs and a drizzling of my cousin Ann’s homemade honey, topped them with a few pats of butter, then roasted them until achingly tender and surrounded in a thick, deep pink syrup. 

Oh my lord, these roasted plums are pure heaven.   Absolutely blissful alongside the poppy seed cake, and just as divine swirled into my steel-cut oatmeal the next morning.  I can think of a hundred ways to use these sticky, rosy slices.  And not just for dessert or breakfast.  Served with a roast chicken or grilled pork chops, or with a rich wedge of fabulous blue cheese.  Holy yum, I could eat them with anything!  In fact, I’m grateful this post is drawing to a close, because now I’m off the the market again, to gather up another colorful collection of plums.  

Roasted Figs Stuffed with Blue Cheese Serves  6     about 12-16 fresh figs 8 oz blue cheese, rind sliced off and discarded 2 Tbl heavy cream about 1 Tbl olive oil, for greasing the pan Preheat the oven to 350ᵒF and arrange an oven rack in the middle position. Cover a sheet pan with tin foil and great the surface of the foil with olive oil. Slice the stems from the tops of the figs, then slice the figs in half, from tops to bottoms. Arrange the fig halve, cut sides up, over the pan. Roast until tender, juicy and slightly browned, about 20-30 minutes. Remove from the oven and cool to room temperature. Place the blue cheese in the bowl of an electric stand mixer, fitted with the paddle attachment. Beat on medium-high speed until smooth, about 2 minutes, scraping down the sides of the bowl with a rubber spatula as needed. Add the cream and beat to incorporate. Transfer the blue cheese mixture to a pastry bag fitted with a medium-sized star attachment. Pipe in a circular motion, onto the tops of the roasted fig halves. If you’d like, you can make these a little while ahead, and store them in the refrigerator, up to 2 hours. Bring to room temperature before serving.

 

 

Sugar-Spiced Nuts Adapted from a recipe by Nancy Silverton, by way of Jen Irwin of Just a Taste Makes 4 cups     about 1 Tbl butter, for greasing the pan 1/4 cup dark brown sugar 1/4 cup white sugar 1 Tbl plus 1 tsp kosher salt pinch of black pepper pinch of cayenne 1/2 tsp plus 1/4 tsp ground coriander 1/4 tsp ground allspice 1/4 tsp ground cumin 1/8 tsp ground ginger 1 egg white 1 cup whole almonds 1 cup pecan halves 1 cup walnut halves 1 cup hazelnuts or cashews Preheat the oven to 325ᵒF, and arrange an oven rack in the middle position. Generously butter the surface of a large baking sheet. Set aside. Stir to thoroughly combine the brown sugar, white sugar, salt, pepper, cayenne, coriander, allspice, cumin and ginger. Set aside. In a large mixing bowl, whisk the egg white until frothy. Add the nuts and toss to coat. Add the sugar-spice mix to the nuts and toss to coat. Spread the nuts in a sinle layer over the buttered baking sheet. Bake for 30-40 minutes until golden brown and fragrant, stirring every 10 minutes. Remove from the oven and stir often as they cool, in order to separate the nuts. Serve at room temperature. These can be stored in an air-tight container at room temperature for up to 2 weeks.

 

 

Prosciutto-Wrapped Sea Bass Serves 4     4 6-oz portions sea bass fillets 4 thin slices prosciutto kosher salt & freshly ground black pepper, to taste extra-virgin olive oil, as needed Season the sea bass fillets with a sprinkling of salt and pepper, then wrap each fillet with 1 slice of prosciutto. If you tuck one end of the prosciutto beneath the other, it should stick well and you won’t need any toothpicks or anything to hold it in place. Heat a large non-stick sauté pan over high heat, for about 2 minutes. Add about 1 Tbl olive oil and continue to heat about 30 seconds. Reduce the heat to about medium , then add the prosciutto-wrapped fillets, presentation side down. Cook for about 1-2 minutes, until lightly golden brown, then flip the fillets over and cook on the other side for another 1-2 minutes. Transfer the fillets to a wire rack placed on top of a baking sheet. Hold the fillets at room temperature, until you’re ready to serve dinner, up to 1 hour. About half an hour to 45 minutes before you want to serve dinner, preheat the oven to 400ᵒF. Bake until the fish is cooked through, opaque in color and flakes easily when gently pressed, about 15 minutes. The internal temperature should be 135ᵒF. Serve hot.

 

 

Summer Squash with Fresh Herbs Serves  6     about 1 # small-sized zucchini about 1 # small-sized yellow summer squash 1 Tbl extra-virgin olive oil 1 Tbl butter 1/4 cup chopped flat-leaf parsley 1 Tbl chopped fresh basil 1 Tbl chopped fresh oregano 1 Tbl chopped fresh marjoram kosher salt & freshly ground black pepper, to taste Wash and dry the squash. Slice crosswise into circle, about ¼-inch thick. Heat the olive oil and butter in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. When the butter melts, decrease the heat to medium-low, and add the sliced zucchini and summer squash. Season with a sprinkling of salt and pepper and stir to coat. Cook, tossing or stirring the squash every 4 minutes or so, until tender and just barely golden, about 20 minutes. Add the the chopped herbs and toss to coat. Taste and season as needed with salt and pepper. Transfer to a serving platter and serve hot.

 

 

Wild Rice and Green Lentils Serves  6     1 cup wild rice 2 Tbl extra-virgin olive oil 2 large shallots, peeled and finely chopped 1 small garlic clove, peeled and finely minced 2 oz pancetta, sliced 1/4-inch thick then cut into 1/4-inch cubes 1/2 cup French green lentils 1 bay leaf 2 Tbl chopped flat leaf parsley kosher salt & freshly ground black pepper, to taste In a medium-sized saucepot over high heat, bring about 3 cups water to a boil. Add the wild rice and about 1 tsp kosher salt and return to a boil. Then reduce the heat, cover and keep at a bare simmer until the rice is tender, about 45 minutes. Drain and discard the water and reserve the cooked rice. Heat a large sauté pan over high heat for about 2 minutes, then add the olive oil and heat about 30 seconds longer. Reduce the heat to medium, add the chopped shallots and sauté until tender and translucent, stirring occasionally, about 5 minutes. Add the minced garlic and cook 1 minute more, stirring frequently. Add the chopped pancetta and continue to cook until crisp and golden, stirring frequently, about 7-10 minutes more. Add the lentils and cook, stirring constantly, about 1 minute more. Add about 1 ¾ cups water along with the bay leaf. Season with a sprinkling of salt and pepper. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to maintain a bare simmer. Cover and simmer until the lentils are tender, about 35-40 minutes. Most of the liquid will be absorbed by the lentil or evaporate, but some may remain in the pan. Discard the bay leaf. Add the rice to the lentils and cook over medium, uncovered, until heated through and the liquid is absorbed, about 5-10 minutes. Add the parsley and stir to combine. Taste and season as needed with salt and pepper. Serve hot.

 

 

Braised Radishes This recipe is a repeat from a previous dinner party.  (It’s that good!)  Check it out here.

 

 

Vanilla-Poppy Seed Cake with Roasted Plums Cake recipe adapted from Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone by Deborah Madison Serves  10    For the cake: 1 cup poppy seeds 1/2 cup whole milk, hot 2 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for preparing the cake pan 1 tsp baking powder 1/2 tsp kosher salt 3 eggs, separated 1/2 cup unsalted butter, room temperature, plus more for preparing the cake pan 1 cup granulated sugar 2 tsp pure vanilla extract 1 cup sour cream In a small mixing bowl, combine the poppy seeds and the hot milk. Set aside until needed. Preheat the oven to 375ᵒF and arrange an oven rack in the middle position. Butter and flour a 9-inch spring form cake pan. Set aside. In a medium-sized mixing bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt. Place the egg whites in the bowl of an electric stand mixer, fitted with the whisk attachment. Whisk on medium-high until firm but moist peaks form. Transfer the egg whites to a small mixing bowl. Using the same bowl as for the egg whites, but now using the paddle attachment, beat the butter and sugar on medium-high speed until light and fluffy, about 3 minutes. Add the vanilla, then beat in the egg yolks, adding one at a time and beating well after each addition. Scrape down the sides of the bowl with a rubber spatula, as needed. Drain the milk from the poppy seeds, discarding the milk. Add the sour cream and the drained poppy seeds to the batter. Beat until well combined, then again scrape down the sides of the bowl with the rubber spatula. Add the flour mixture to the batter, in thirds. Again scrape the bowl with the rubber spatula, making sure it’s all well mixed. Fold in about a quarter of the beaten egg whites with the spatula, then fold in the rest, mixing gently until just combined. Transfer the batter into the prepared cake pan, smoothing the top with the rubber spatula. Bake until golden and firm, with the sides just beginning to pull away from the pan, about 40-50 minutes. Remove from the oven and place on a wire rack. Carefully run a sharp, thin knife along the sides of the cake, just against the pan, then gently remove the rim and allow the cake to cool to room temperature. Slice into 10-12 wedges and serve with roasted plums and whipped cream (See recipes below).   For the roasted plums: 3 # plums, of as many varieties and colors as you can find 3 Tbl honey 3 sprigs fresh rosemary 2 Tbl butter Preheat the oven to 400ᵒF. Wash and dry the plums, then slice in half, remove the pits, and slice again into 1-inch thick wedges, about 8 per plum. Combine the sliced plums and honey in a large mixing bowl and toss to coat. Add the rosemary sprigs and toss again to coat. Grease the surface of a large baking sheet with butter, then spread the plums and rosemary evenly over the pan, in a single layer. Dot the tops of the plums with small pieces of the remaining butter. Bake until the plums are tender, juicy, and just barely turning golden at the edges, about 30 minutes. Remove from the oven, and allow to cool to room temperature before serving. These can be kept refrigerated in an airtight container for up to days, but make sure to re-heat slightly before serving. For the whipped cream: 1 cup heavy whipping cream 1 Tbl granulated sugar 1 tsp pure vanilla extract Whip the cream to soft peaks (When you lift the whisk out of the cream, a point will form then droop down after a second or two). Add sugar and vanilla and whip to firm peaks (The point formed in the cream will stand straight up and not fall over).

A Labor of Love

Ben and I have spent the summer enthusiastically searching for the best barbecue in Chicago. We’ve had a lot of fun looking, and have found some pretty awesome spots. But it wasn’t until last weekend, Labor Day actually, that last true weekend of summer, when we finally tried our own hand at grilling up a barbecue feast.

After sorting through all sorts of barbecue recipes and reading tips from all the pit masters, we got right down to work, whipping up ribs and baked beans, coleslaw, cornbread, and all sorts of other stuff.  After hours in the kitchen and out at the grill, we had a feast to rival any barbecue joint. The two of us, and all our guests (it was our biggest party yet!) were thrilled with the results.  Just as tasty as some of our favorite Chicago barbecue spots!

The substantial amount of prep was the only imaginable downside.  A homemade barbecue feast is nowhere near as easy as popping into a neighborhood barbecue place, but it was Labor Day after all. And what better way to celebrate this holiday than with a true labor of love?

Pimento Cheese with Vegetable Crudités & Blue Corn Chips Deviled Eggs Dill Pickle Spears Bing Cherries & Sliced Watermelon   Barbecue Spareribs, 2 Ways Cheddar-Jalapeño Cornbread Slow-Cooked Baked Beans Corn on the Cob     Blueberry Pie with Vanilla Ice Cream

We started out the night with a huge spread of Southern-style snacks. Deviled eggs you’ve seen a time or two on here already. I’m thoroughly addicted to these tasty guys, and each time I serve them, people just go nuts. I threw together a few super-easy things too: fresh veggies, Bing cherries, juicy triangles of sliced watermelon, crunchy dill pickle spears, blue corn chips.

But best of all, pimento cheese. My best friend Susan, a true Southern belle, introduced us to this incredibly tasty dip a few years ago, and it’s kept a its place towards the front of our favorites ever since. This cream cheese-based dip is chock full of shredded cheddar and Monterey Jack cheese, dotted with bright red specks of diced pimento peppers, and enhanced with just a pinch of grated onion and that oh-so-classy garlic powder. It’s a delightfully wicked complement to any vegetable spread. Everyone loved this salty, tangy stuff. Not a single scoop was left behind.

Please pardon the pun, but now let’s get to the real meat of the matter, the barbecue ribs. Our initial plan was to stay as true to barbecue tradition as possible, and smoke them long and low over our charcoal grill. But as our guest list continued to grow in the week leading up to Labor Day, we realized our modestly sized grill could never fit all the ribs we’d be cooking up. So we decided to try them out 2 ways – Ben smoked two racks on the grill for hours and hours, and I slowly roasted another four in the oven for just about as long.  And then we had a taste test.

The results? Well, they were pretty close. But here’s the general summary. Ben’s ribs, which took considerably more effort and attention, turned out absolutely gorgeous, a true pit master’s result. Full of huge smoky flavor, and tender as anything, every bite tasted of the long, loving hours spent over the smoldering wood chips. My ribs had the upfront benefit of being much easier to prepare. Following a trick I learned from my grandma (an ingenious method), I slowly roasted the ribs in the oven, then dipped each single rib in sauce and gave it a quick grill, just enough to give them some nice blackened grill marks. Aside from this boon of easiness, these guys received the popular vote too. They were a bit meatier and juicier than the first version, with the sauce adding a nice touch of caramel goodness. I felt a little bit guilty, because Ben had worked so hard and given such care to his home-smoked racks. And if you asked me, I think I’d have to give his racks a slight edge over mine. They were just so authentic and true to the spirit of barbecue. But then again, as soon as I think of the ease with which I whipped those insanely tasty slow-roasted ribs, I just may have to call it a tie. At any rate, they were both incredible enough to include here.

And oh, I definitely want to share a few thoughts about my homemade spice rub and barbecue sauce. The rub, a powdered concoction of all kinds of herbs and spices, went a long way towards imparting wonderful flavor deep into the rib meat. I don’t think I’d ever make ribs again without it. And the homemade sauce – a smoky tomato and vinegar based blend with molasses, garlic, pepper, onion, mustard, brown sugar and much more - was everything a barbecue sauce should be, no matter what part of the country you call home. I experimented with recipes all week, and even continued tweaking for a few days after the party. But now, finally, I do believe I’ve perfected my ultimate barbecue sauce recipe. Check it out below. I know you probably have a favorite go-to brand of bottled sauce, and I certainly do myself, but if you’re ever in the mood to try out a homemade version, this one is really wonderful.

And now for the side dishes, all classics you’d find in any barbecue joint.  Corn on the cob, drizzled with melted butter and sprinkled with salt – well, that needs no verbose description. And the coleslaw recipe, I’ve shared with you before.  Simply said, it’s hands-down my favorite coleslaw.  I’ll save my expounding for the beans and the cornbread.

First off, the cornbread. A Cook’s Illustrated recipe (and I should mention that Ben’s ribs and the blueberry pie below also herald from the pages of that fantastic magazine), this cornbread is a real winner. With a batter of yellow cornmeal and buttermilk, full of golden kernels of fresh corn, a green confetti of diced jalapeno and a generous grating of sharp cheddar cheese, this cornbread emerges from the oven moist and tender, with wonderfully true corn flavor and a gorgeous golden crust. Sliced warm, with pats of butter melting over the top... well, nothing quite compares.

Now let’s talk beans. These brilliant baked beans are maybe my absolute favorite Ina Garten recipe ever. If you’ve been following this blog for even a short while, you’ll know that that’s quite a statement. I simply adore her recipes. I’ve got all her cookbooks, and every single one ranks among my favorites. But this baked bean recipe is perhaps her greatest triumph of all. Creamy, sloooow-cooked red kidney beans, studded with thick slices of smoky bacon, all tucked into a rich, velvety sauce thick and sticky with brown sugar and maple syrup, and spiked with bright notes of fresh ginger and chili. A little sweet, a little spicy, a little smoky, and hugely luscious, these glorious beans were the crowning glory of our barbecue feast.

And last but not least, dessert of course. Cook’s Illustrated named it their best blueberry pie recipe. And so, of course, I just had to try it out. And I’ve got to say, I just may agree with them. To start, it’s got this beautifully buttery, incredibly flaky crust. The trick to this, they say, is replacing some of the water with ice-cold vodka instead. I was skeptical at first, but the delicious results spoke for themselves. The berry filling was not only delicious, but had the perfect consistency, neither too runny nor too stiff. The special trick here was a grated Granny Smith, which added a bit of pectin, along with some ground tapioca, which you’d never even guess was in there. I always love the tricks and tips I find in Cook’s Illustrated, and these did not disappoint. This blueberry pie recipe was especially clever, and the end result, was especially delicious. With a scoop of vanilla ice cream, it was a perfect ending to our awesome Labor Day barbecue.

Pimento Cheese Adapted from a recipe by Paula Deen Makes about 3 cups      8 oz (1 package) cream cheese, room temperature 1 cup grated sharp white cheddar cheese 1 cup grated Monterey Jack cheese 1/2 cup mayonnaise 1 tsp grated onion 4 oz jar diced pimentos, drained 1/2 tsp kosher salt pinch of freshly ground black pepper pinch of garlic powder   Using an electric stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the cream cheese until light and fluffy, about 2 minutes.  Scrape down the sides of the bowl with a rubber spatula as needed.  Add the rest of the ingredients and beat until well combined, again scraping with the spatula as needed.   Can be served right away (with chips, crackers, or vegetable crudités) or kept refrigerated in an air-tight container for up to five days.

 

 

Deviled Eggs This recipe is a repeat from a previous dinner party.  (It’s that good!)  Check it out here.

 

 

Slow-Roasted Barbecue Spareribs (Easier Rib Recipe) Serves 4 with big appetites, but more like 6 if you’re serving lots of good sides   2 racks St. Louis Style spareribs about 1/2 cup spice rub (see recipe below) about 3 cups barbecue sauce (see recipe below) vegetable oil, for preparing the grill Rub the spice mixture evenly over the two racks of ribs, on all sides.  Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate, at least 6 hours and up to overnight. Preheat the oven to 300°F, and arrange an oven rack in the middle position.    Using damp paper towels, wipe off most of the spice rub from the two racks of ribs.  Slice the racks into single ribs by slicing between the rib bones.  Arrange the ribs evenly within a large roasting pan.  (It is okay if the do not fit in a single layer and you have to place some on top of each other.)  Cover the roasting pan tightly with foil.  Bake for 1 hour at 300°F,  then decrease the heat to 250°F and bake 1 hour longer.  Decrease the heat again to 200°F and bake 1 hour longer, or until the meat is very tender and pulling away from the rib bones.  Remove the ribs from the oven, and cool at room temperature, about 1 hour.  At this point, you can either refrigerate them overnight, covered in plastic wrap, or proceed with the the next step, once they are cool.  (If you do refrigerate them, make sure you let them set at room temperature for about 1 hour before proceeding.) Heat the grill on high until very hot, about 30 minutes. Here’s a way to tell if your grill is at the right temperature.  Hold your hand right over it.  If you you can keep it there for five seconds, it’s not hot enough.  If you can’t hold it there for even half a second, it's too hot.  When the grill is hot, soak a clean rag or a bunch of paper towels with a few tablespoons of vegetable oil, and using tongs, rub it over the grill rack.  Pour about 1 1/2 cups barbecue sauce into a medium-sized container or bowl.  Dip the ribs, one at a time, into the barbecue sauce, shaking them gently to remove any excess sauce.  Arrange the sauced-dipped ribs directly over the flame or hot coals, working with only as many as you feel comfortable handling at once.  Grill, meat side down, about 1 minute, then flip the ribs over and grill, bone side down, about 1 minute more.  You just want to give the ribs some nice grill marks and heat them up a bit.  Remove the grilled ribs to a serving platter and serve immediately, with extra barbecue sauce on the side.

 

 

Hickory-Smoked Barbecue Spareribs (Less Easy Rip Recipe) Adapted from Cook’s Illustrated, Summer Entertaining Issue, August 2009 Serves 4-6   This smoking method is best preformed over a charcoal grill.  If all you’ve got is a gas grill, I wouldn’t bother with this recipe.  Try the oven-roasting method instead.     2 racks St. Louis style spareribs about 1/2 cup spice rub (see recipe below) 3 cups apple cider 1 cup cider vinegar 2 cups wood chips (hickory) barbecue sauce, for serving on the side (see recipe below)   Soak the wood chips in a bowl of water for 1 hour.  Light about 3 quarts (45 briquettes) of charcoal and allow to burn until coals are fully ignited and partially covered with a thin ash layer, about 20 minutes.  Arrange the coals, 2 to 3 briquettes high, far to one side of the grill.  Set the cooking grate in place.  Open the top and bottom grill vents halfway.  Place the lid over the grill and let heat for 5 minutes.  Meanwhile, drain the wood chips. Position the rib racks, meaty side up, on the opposite side of the grill from the coals.  Drop about 1/4 cup wood chips over the coals.  Cover the grill, making sure to position the lid so the vents are placed over the ribs and opposite the coals, to help draw smoke through the grill and around the meat.  Meanwhile, combine the apple cider and vinegar in a small sauce pot.  Bring to a simmer, then remove from heat, cover and reserve. After 30 minutes, turn the racks, switching positions and rotating 180 degrees.  Add 1/4 cup wood chips to the coals.  After 1 hour, open the top and bottom vents completely.  Baste the ribs with the cider/vinegar mixture, using a pastry brush or spray bottle.  Turn the racks again and add another 1/4 cup of wood chips.  Continue to cook - making sure to turn the racks, baste the ribs and add wood chips every half hour,  and add 12 new briquettes every hour (while still turning, basting and adding chips) – until the meat is very tender and starts to pull away from the bones, about 3 to 4 hours total.   Before removing the ribs from the grill, place each rack, one at a time, on the grate directly over the hot coals, cooking about 30 seconds on each side.  Transfer to a cutting board, cover loosely with foil and allow to rest 20-30 minutes.  Slice the ribs between the rib bones and serve the barbecue sauce on the side.

 

 

Barbecue Sauce Adapted from The Barbecue! Bible by Steven Raichlen Makes about 3 cups   1/2 stick butter 1 medium onion, peeled and chopped 1/2 red bell pepper, cored, seeded and chopped 1 clove garlic, peeled and minced 1/2 cup ketchup 1/2 cup tomato sauce 3 Tbl cider vinegar 3 Tbl Worcestershire sauce 2 Tbl fresh lemon juice 1 tsp Tabasco sauce 1 tsp liquid smoke 1/4 cup molasses 3 Tbl dark brown sugar 2 Tbl Dijon mustard 1/2 tsp freshly ground black pepper   Melt the butter in a medium-sized saucepot over medium heat.  Add the onion, bell pepper and garlic.  Decrease the heat to medium-low and cook, stirring frequently, until softened but not browned, about 10 minutes.  Add 1 cup water and stir to combine.  Transfer this mixture to a blender and puree until smooth, about 30 seconds.  Transfer back to the saucepot. Stir in the rest of the ingredients (ketchup, tomato sauce, vinegar, Worcestershire sauce, lemon juice, Tabasco sauce, liquid smoke, molasses, brown sugar, Dijon mustard, dry mustard and black pepper) and stir to combine.  Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, then reduce the heat to low and simmer, uncovered and stirring frequently, until thickened to the desired consistency, about 15 minutes.

 

 

Barbecue Spice Rub Makes just over 1 cup, enough for about 4 racks of ribs   1 Tbl ground black pepper 2 Tbl kosher salt 3 Tbl light brown sugar 4 Tbl paprika 1 tsp cayenne 2 Tbl chili powder 1 Tbl ground cumin 1 Tbl celery salt 1 Tbl garlic powder 1 Tbl onion powder 1 Tbl dried oregano   Mix all ingredients together in a small bowl.  Keep until needed in an air-tight container.

 

 

Cheddar-Jalapeño Cornbread Adapted from Cook’s Illustrated Magazine, January 2005 Makes one 8-inch square   1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour 1 cup yellow cornmeal 2 tsp baking powder 1/4 tsp baking soda 1/2 tsp cayenne pepper 1 medium-sized jalapeño, cored, seeded and finely chopped 1/2 tsp kosher salt 4 oz sharp white cheddar cheese, grated 2 Tbl packed light brown sugar 3/4 cup frozen corn kernels, thawed 1 cup buttermilk 2 large eggs 1 stick unsalted butter, melted and cooled slightly, plus more for buttering the dish Preheat the oven to 400°F and position a rack in the middle of the oven.  Generously butter an 8-inch square baking dish (or any baking dish roughly that size).  Set aside. Combine the flour, cornmeal, baking powder, baking soda, cayenne, jalapeño, salt and half the grated cheddar in a large mixing bowl.  Wisk well to combine.  Set aside. Combine the brown sugar, thawed corn kernels and buttermilk in the bowl of an electric food processor.  Process about 5 seconds.  Add the eggs and process about another 5 seconds, until well combined.  (It doesn’t need to be perfectly smooth.  Small bits of corn will remain.) Using a rubber spatula, fold the wet ingredients into the dry ingredients, but give just a few turns, just to barely combine everything.  Add the melted butter and continue folding until the dry ingredients are just moistened.  Pour the batter into the prepared baking dish, smoothing the top surface with the rubber spatula.  Sprinkle the remaining cheddar evenly over the top surface. Bake until deeply golden brown and a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean, about 25-30 minutes.  Cool on a wire rack for 10 minutes, then invert the cornbread onto the wide rack and turn right side-up.  Continue to cool 10 minutes longer, until just warm.  Slice into 16 2-inch squares and serve.

 

 

Slow-Cooked Baked Beans Adapted from Barefoot Contessa at Home by Ina Garten Serves 8   1 # dried red kidney beans 1 large yellow onion, peeled, cored and sliced in eighths 1 bay leaf 6 whole black peppercorns 3/4 cup grade-B pure maple syrup 1/2 cup light brown sugar, lightly packed 1/2 cup ketchup 1 Tbl chili-garlic sauce 1 1/2 tsp freshly grated ginger 5 oz thickly cut smoked bacon, cut into half-inch slices kosher salt & freshly ground black pepper, to taste Place the beans in a large bowl and cover by one inch with water.  Let sit overnight.  Drain and rinse the beans, then drain again. In a large pot, combine the beans with 2 quarts of water, the sliced onion, bay leaf and peppercorns.  Bring to a boil, then lower the heat to keep at just a bare simmer.  Simmer until tender, about 90 minutes.  Drain the beans, making sure to save the cooking liquid. Preheat the oven to 225°F and arrange an oven rack in the middle position.  In a small saucepan, whisk to combine the maple syrup, brown sugar, ketchup, chili-garlic sauce, ginger, salt and 1 1/2 cups of the cooking liquid (making sure to still reserve the rest of the cooking liquid).  Bring to a simmer over medium heat.  Simmer for 5-6 minutes. Transfer the beans to a medium Dutch oven (or if necessary, a large saucepot).  Discard the bay leaf.  Add half of the sliced bacon and stir gently to combine.  Arrange the rest of the sliced bacon evenly over the top of the beans.  Pour the maple syrup sauce over the beans.  Cover the pot with the lid and bake for 6 to 8 hours.  Lift the lid to check occasionally.  If the beans look too dry, add 1/2 cup cooking liquid at a time.  Remove the lid for the last 30 minutes of cooking to thicken the sauce.  Serve hot.  Can be kept refrigerated in an air-tight container for up to five days.

 

 

Coleslaw This recipe is a repeat from a previous dinner party.  (It’s that good!)  Check it out here.

 

 

Blueberry Pie Adapted from Cook’s Illustrated Magazine, July 2008 Serves 8   For the pie dough: 2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting work surfaces 1 rounded tsp kosher salt 2 Tbl sugar 1 1/2 sticks cold unsalted butter, cold, cut into 1/4-inch cubes 1/2 cup vegetable shortening, cold, cut into 1/4-inch cubes 1/4 cup vodka, cold 1/4 cup cold water   For the blueberry filling: 6 cups (about 30 oz) fresh [or frozen] blueberries 1 Granny Smith apple, peeled and grated on the large holes of a box grater 1 tsp grated lemon zest 1 tsp fresh lemon juice 3/4 cup plus 1 Tbl granulated sugar, divided 2 Tbl quick-cooking tapioca, ground (with a spice grinder or mini food processor) pinch of kosher salt 2 Tbl unsalted butter, cut into 1/4-inch pieces 1 large egg Make the pie dough:  Add 1 1/2 cups flour, salt and sugar to the bowl of an electric food processor.  Pulse until just combined, about two 1-second pulses.  Add the butter and the shortening.  Process until the dough is begins to collect in uneven clumps resembling cheese curds, and there is no uncoated flour, about 15 seconds.  Scrape down the sides of the bowl with a rubber spatula, then add the remaining 1 cup of flour.  Pulse until the mixture is evenly distributed, and the dough is evenly broken up, about 5-6 quick pulses.  Transfer the mixture into a medium-sized mixing bowl. Sprinkle the vodka and water over the mixture.  Using a rubber spatula, fold the mixture together, until the dough is slightly tacky and sticks together.  Divide the dough into two even balls, and flatten each into a 4-inch disk.  Wrap each separately in plastic wrap.  Refrigerate at least 45 minutes, and up to 2 days. Remove one disk of dough from the refrigerator.  On a generously floured work surface, roll out the dough to a 12-inch circle, of about 1/8-inch thick.  Roll the dough loosely onto the rolling pin, then lift it and unroll it into a 9-inch pie plate, leaving at least a 1-inch overhang around the edge.  Gently press the dough into the pie plate bottom.  Refrigerate while preparing the filling, or at least until the dough is firm, about 30 minutes.   Arrange an oven rack in the lowest position, place a rimmed baking sheet on the oven rack, and preheat oven to 400°F.  For the filling: Place 3 cups of blueberries in a medium saucepan set over medium heat.  Using a potato masher, smash the berries several times (about 5-6 times) so they will begin to release their juices.  Cook, stirring frequently and mashing occasionally, until the mixture is thickened and reduced to about 1 1/2 cups, and about half the berries have broken down, about 8-10 minutes.  [If using frozen blueberries, cook half of the frozen berries over medium-high heat, stirring frequently and without mashing, until reduced to about 1 1/4 cups, 12-15 minutes.]  Let cool slightly.  Place the grated apple in a thin, clean kitchen towel and wring dry.  Transfer the apple grating to a large mixing bowl, and discard (or drink!) the juice.  Add the cooked blueberries, the remaining 3 cups of uncooked blueberries, the lemon zest, lemon juice, 3/4 cups sugar, tapioca and salt.  Stir to combine thoroughly.  Transfer the mixture to the dough-lined pie plate. Evenly scatter the butter pieces over the berry filling. Roll out the remaining disk of dough to a 11-inch circle, again about 1/8-inch thick, on a generously floured work surface.  Using a 1-inch round circular biscuit cutter, cut a round from the center of the dough, then cut another 6 rounds, equally spaced around this center circle, each about 1/2-inch apart.  Roll the dough loosely onto the rolling pin, then lift it and unroll it over the pie, leaving at least 1/2-inch overhang around the edges.  Using kitchen shears, trim the bottom layer of overhanging dough to a 1/2-inch overhand.  Fold the overhang of the top dough over the edge of the bottom dough, so that the edge of the fold is flush with the outer rim of the pie plate.  Flute the edges, or press with the back of a fork to seal.  Brush the top and edges of the pie crust with the egg-water mixture.  Sprinkle evenly with the remaining tablespoon of sugar.  If the dough seems very soft, place in the refrigerator for about 15 minutes.  Place the pie on the heated baking sheet.  Bake 30 minutes, then reduce the heat to 350 F and continue to bake until the crust is deeply golden brown and the blueberry juices bubble, about 30-40 minutes more.  Transfer the pie to a wire rack and cool to room temperature, about 4 hours.  Cut into wedges and serve, preferable with vanilla ice cream.

Our Favorite

All of a sudden, hints of fall began to creep up on us last week.  Even without a difference yet in the tree colors, the fresh energy of the new season is undeniable - cool breezes, crisp mornings, little welcome changes here and there.  We donned our first sweaters in ages, switched from flip flops to sneakers, from air-conditioning to wide-open windows, and from iced coffees to huge, comforting mugs of hot tea.  I have a feeling there’s a good few days of hot weather still hiding behind the corner, waiting to sneak out before they’re blown away for the rest of the year.  But for now, this little taste of fall is sure nice.  I’d been craving it for a while.

Speaking of craving, this bit of cool weather gave us the perfect excuse to make a meal Ben and I had really been pining for lately – Lasagna.  Comfort food to the extreme, lasagna is so warm and cozy, and just so much better in the cooler months, I hate to waste it on summer.  But as soon as we noticed these slightest signs of autumn, we knew it was time for our favorite lasagna, and time too to share it with our favorite new friends, our neighbors from the first floor, Jen and Ted and little baby Luca. 

Lasagna with Sweet Italian Sausage Caesar Salad with Slow-Roasted Cherry Tomatoes, Pancetta & Parmesan Crusty Bread   Gooey Chocolate-Gingerbread Cookies

It’s a recipe of Ina Garten’s (Thanks again, Barefoot Contessa!), and it is now officially our favorite.  We made it for the first time about a year ago, during the same sort of in-between-fall-and-summer time.  We’d been out all morning on a neighborhood architecture tour.  The crisp weather must have inspired us the same way it did this year, because by the end of the chilly walk, we’d decided that dinner would have to be lasagna.  Hungry already, we made a quick stop at the market, and got cooking as soon we arrived home.  Ben sautéed sweet Italian sausage, onions and garlic, while I chopped huge handfuls of basil and parsley.  He grated cheese and simmered and stirred tomato sauce, while I folded together ricotta and parmesan and creamy goat cheese.  And then, we assembled the layers -  rich and heady tomato sauce full of fresh herbs and plump juicy sausage, tender flat noodles with swirly edges, wet slices of fresh mozzarella, creamy herb-flecked ricotta and goat cheese – piling one on top of the next, then topping the stack with a powdery dusting of freshly grated parmesan. 

As soon as it came out of the oven, all hot and bubbling and divinely golden brown, we knew it was going to be our favorite lasagna.  And isn’t it true that everyone has a favorite lasagna?  Mine has always been my mom’s, an absolutely delicious and surprisingly meatless variation, with tender steamed spinach, mozzarella, parmesan and a sweetly savory tomato sauce.  And to me, nothing will ever compare to this dish.  It will always taste purely of home.  It will always be my favorite lasagna.  But somehow, this new lasagna has become a favorite too.  The only way I can describe it, is as our favorite.  It has something to do, I’m sure, with that very first day we made it.  Together, after a great morning in our new city.  I taste that morning every time we eat this lasagna, just like I taste home ever time I eat my mom’s. 

By now we’ve fallen into the pattern of always having our lasagna alongside toasty slices of crusty Ciabatta bread, and this particularly fabulous Caesar Salad (another recipe of Ina Garten’s, but from another one of her incredible cookbooks).  Ordinary Caesar salad is delicious to begin with, with it’s lemony parmesan dressing, crisp green romaine and showers of even more parmesan.  This Caesar takes all that inherent deliciousness to another level, with wide thin ribbons of parmesan, crunchy bites of sautéed pancetta (like gourmet bacon bits) and sliced cherry tomatoes, roasted ever so slowly with olive oil and thyme, until their juices concentrate, their flavors intensify and sweeten, and they begin to shrink and wrinkle, becoming savory version of plump and juicy raisins.  Oh wow, if Caesar salad is good, this twist is just too good to be true!

And finally, dessert.  And oh, what a dessert!  These gooey chocolate-gingerbread cookies are hands down the best cookies I’ve made in ages.  The recipe is from the pages of my Martha Stewart’s Cookies cook book, and I tried it out for the very first time only a few weeks ago, while private cheffing down in North Carolina.   With my first bite, I just about died.  I expected them to be good, but these were out of this world, unbelievable.  The deeply dark cookie dough is rich with big notes of molasses, fresh ginger, Dutch cocoa powder, dark brown sugar and intoxicating spice flavor – cinnamon, cloves and nutmeg – and loaded with large chunks of bittersweet chocolate.  Rolled in granulated sugar, the balls of deeply colored dough bake into thin, tender circles with a crisp, sparkling crust and a centers of molten chocolate. 

The most amazing part is – and I can’t quite figure out how this works – the gooey chocolate stays in its liquid state, ages longer than it seems possible.  The gooeyness far outlasts the heat of the oven.  Check out that picture below.  Wouldn’t you assume that cookie to be fresh out of the oven, burn-your-fingers hot?  Well that’s the incredible thing – it’s not!  Hard to believe, but that cookie is at least an hour old.  Even at room temp, the molten center lasts and lasts.  Truly, I’m awestruck by these unbelievable cookies! 

It’s funny.  Not even quite fall yet, and already I’m wishing it were Christmas.  But only because I think these guys have all the makings to be the best Christmas cookies ever.  But no need to rush things – autumn can last as long as it likes.   As fun as it will be to wow everyone at this year’s cookie exchange, I can wait patiently.  These cookies are wonderful all year round – winter, spring, summer, fall, or best of all, those times like now, somewhere right in between.

Lasagna with Sweet Italian Sausage Adapted from Barefoot Contessa Family Style by Ina Garten Serves  8        2 Tbl extra-virgin olive oil 1 large yellow onion, peeled & chopped 2 garlic cloves, minced 1 1/2 # sweet Italian sausage, casings removed 1 6-oz can tomato paste 1 28-oz can crushed tomatoes, in tomato puree 2 Tbl plus 2 Tbl chopped flat-leaf parsley, divided 1/2 cup chopped basil leaves 1/2 # lasagna noodles 15 oz whole-milk ricotta cheese 4 oz creamy goat cheese, crumbled 1 cup plus 1/4 cup finely grated Parmesan cheese, divided 1 egg, lightly beaten 1 # fresh mozzarella, thinly sliced kosher salt & freshly ground black pepper, to taste     Preheat the oven to 400ᵒF.      Heat your largest sauté pan over high heat, for about 2 minutes.  Add the olive oil to the pan, then reduce the heat to medium-low and add the chopped onions.  Season with a good pinch of salt and pepper.  Cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions are tender and just turning translucent, about 5 minutes.  Add the garlic and cook for 1 more minute, stirring frequently.  Add the sausage and cook, breaking it up with the back of a fork or a potato masher, until the sausage is no longer pink, about 8-10 minutes.  Add the tomato paste and stir to combine.  Add the crushed tomatoes and stir to combine.  Season with another good pinch of salt and pepper.  Simmer, uncovered, for 15-20 minutes, until just thickened.  Then add 2 Tbl parsley and the basil and stir to combine.        While the sauce is simmering, fill a large mixing bowl with boiling water.  Add the noodles (one at a time, or they’ll all stick together) and let them soak in the water for 20 minutes, then drain.       In a medium-sized mixing bowl, stir to combine the ricotta, goat cheese, 1 cup of grated Parmesan, the egg, and the remaining 2 Tbl parsley, along with a good pinch of salt and pepper.  Set aside.    Spoon one third of the tomato sauce into a 9x13-inch baking dish.  Spread the sauce evenly over the bottom of the dish.  Then add the following layers: half of the pasta, half of the sliced mozzarella, half of the ricotta mixture, one third of the sauce, the rest of the pasta, the rest of the mozzarella, the rest of the ricotta, and finally, the rest of the sauce.  Sprinkle the top evenly with the remaining 1/4 cup grated parmesan.      Bake for 30 minutes, uncovered, until the sauce is bubbling and the top is golden brown.  If you’d like to make this ahead, the assembled, unbaked lasagna can be refrigerated and covered with plastic wrap, then baked for 30-40 minutes until bubbling.

 

Caesar Salad with Slow-Roasted Cherry Tomatoes, Pancetta & Parmesan Adapted from Barefoot Contessa Parties! by Ina Garten Serves  6-8     For the slow-roasted tomatoes: 2 pints cherry or grape tomatoes 1 Tbl extra-virgin olive oil 4 sprigs thyme kosher salt & freshly ground black pepper, to taste   Preheat the oven to 300ᵒF.  Arrange a rack in the middle of the oven.   Slice the tomatoes in half, from top to bottom.  Toss with olive oil, thyme sprigs and a pinch of salt and pepper.  Spread over a parchment paper-lined baking sheet, arranging the tomatoes so the cut sides all face up, in a single layer.  Roast until wrinkly and soft, about 2 hours, rotating the pan about half-way through the baking time.  Cool on the pan to room temperature, then store at room temperature in an air-tight container until needed.  If keeping overnight, store in the refrigerator.       For the Caesar Dressing: 1 large egg yolk, room temperature 2 tsp Dijon mustard 2 large garlic cloves, peeled and chopped 8 anchovy fillets 1/2 c cup freshly squeezed lemon juice (from about 3 lemons) 2 tsp kosher salt 1/2 tsp freshly ground black pepper 1 cup extra-virgin olive oil 1/2 cup vegetable oil 1/2 cup finely grated Parmesan cheese Combine the egg yolk, mustard, garlic, anchovies, lemon juice, salt and pepper into the bowl of an electric food processor.  Process until smooth, scraping down the sides of the bowl with a rubber spatula as needed.  With the food processor running, very slowly pour the olive oil, and then the vegetable oil through the feed tube, adding only a few drops at a time and allowing the oil to incorporate fully and thicken the sauce.  Add the grated Parmesan and pulse a few times to combine.  This can be kept refrigerated in an air-tight container for about 2-3 days.  For the rest of the salad: 3/4 pound pancetta, sliced 1/2 inch thick 3 large heads romaine lettuce, outer leaves and any blemished leaves discarded 1 cup finely grated Parmesan cheese, plus 2 oz chunk Parmesan, sliced into ribbons with      a vegetable peeler kosher salt & freshly ground black pepper, to taste   Cook the sliced pancetta in a sauté pan over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally until browned and crispy, about 15 minutes.  Using a slotted spoon, transfer the cooked pancetta to a bed of paper towels to drain.   Cooking the pancetta should be done at more or less the last minute.  It hardens as it sits, and is best eaten within an hour of cooking.    Slice the romaine cross-wise into roughly 1 1/2-inch slices.    In a large mixing bowl, toss the sliced romaine with enough dressing to coat it well.  (You won’t need to use it all, by a long shot.)  Add the grated Parmesan, most of the sliced Parmesan ribbons, most of the pancetta and most of the tomatoes.  (I say ‘most’ because you’ll want to leave a bit of these things left for topping the salad.  It’s prettier that way.)  Season with a sprinkling of salt and pepper, then toss well to combine.  Transfer to a serving bowl or platter, then garnish with the remaining Parmesan ribbons, pancetta and roast tomatoes.  Serve immediately.

 

Gooey Chocolate-Gingerbread Cookies Adapted from Martha Stewart’s Cookies Makes 2 dozen     1 1/2 cups plus 1 Tbl all-purpose flour 1 1/4 tsp ground ginger 1 tsp ground cinnamon 1/4 tsp ground cloves 1/4 tsp grated nutmeg 1 Tbl unsweetened Dutch-process cocoa powder 1 stick unsalted butter, room temperature 1 Tbl freshly grated peeled ginger 1/2 cup packed dark brown sugar 1/2 cup molasses 1 tsp baking soda 1 1/2 tsp boiling water 7 oz good-quality semi-sweet chocolate, cut into 1/4-inch chunks 1/4 cup granulated sugar   In a large mixing bowl, whisk together the flour, ground ginger, cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg and cocoa.  Set aside.   Using an electric stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the butter and fresh grated ginger on medium speed until light and fluffy, about 4 minutes.  Add the brown sugar, beat until combined, then add the molasses and beat until combined.    Dissolve the baking soda in the water in a small bowl.  Beat half of the flour mixture into the butter mixture, scraping down the sides of the bowl with a rubber spatula, as necessary.  Beat in the baking soda mixture, then the remaining half of the flour mixture.  Add the chocolate and mix by hand to incorporate.    Transfer the dough onto a large sheet of plastic wrap.  Pat out to a thickness of about 1-inch, then wrap with the plastic.  Refrigerate for at least two hours or overnight.   Preheat the oven to 325ᵒF.  Line two baking sheets with parchment paper.  Roll the dough into 2 dozen 1 1/2” balls.  Arrange 2 inches apart on prepared baking sheets.  Refrigerate for 20 minutes, then roll the balls in the granulated sugar.  Bake just until the top surface begins to crack, about 10-12 minutes, rotating the pans half-way through.  Let the cookies cool on the pan for 5 minutes.  Then, using a thin metal spatula,  transfer the cookies to a wire rack to cool completely.  These are best eaten the day they are made, especially for the sake of the gooey centers, but they can up stored at room temperature in an air-tight container up to 5 days.  You’ll loose a bit of the gooeyness, but they’ll still be incredible.